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Old 03-15-2007, 08:04 PM   #1
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Default supercharger noise in portland or

HI I am new to the club. I live in portland Oregon. I am have trouble with my superchargwer in my 1996 bonnieville it is ,L67 3800. It is makin a bit of a clucky sound we put new trans mission fluid in cause of a leak. we tighten up a house that was also leakin trany fluid. but still the noise I also lose power when i get to second.
is it safe to drive?????????
thanks
shawn
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Old 03-15-2007, 08:12 PM   #2
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holy crap.......did i understand you corretly, and you put trans fluid in your SC???.....if so Drain it out and get GM SC oil in there

Dr. Supercharger is near you, and will be chiming in shortly
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Old 03-15-2007, 08:20 PM   #3
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Default no no no

no i did not put trany fluid in, I put trany fluild in the right place it'* ok.
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Old 03-15-2007, 09:10 PM   #4
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Default Re: no no no

Quote:
Originally Posted by bonnielass
no i did not put trany fluid in, I put trany fluild in the right place it'* ok.
ok...cool.....



willwren is your MAN for SC'*
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Old 03-15-2007, 09:11 PM   #5
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I sent a link to a diagnosis page to your email this morning. Did you get it?

I wrote these pages from my own experience working on these gizmos:

http://www.bonnevilleclub.com/forum/tech/superchargers/

http://www.bonnevilleclub.com/forum/...iagnosing.html



Quote:
A rattling noise at idle is almost always a worn supercharger coupler inside the nosedrive. Refer to How they work for a description of it'* function and purpose. The noise comes from the 6 holes in the coupler being worn into more of an oval shape than round. Don't confuse this noise for a noise from the harmonic balancer (dampener). The balancer makes more of a loud clattering noise at idle. To determine if the rattling noise at idle is your problem, remove the supercharger belt (by releasing the belt tensioner) and rapidly turning the supercharger coupler back and forth rapidly by hand (back and forth in the direction the belt normally spins the pulley). If you 'feel' any slop or movement without feeling the immediate resistance of the weight of the rotors spinning, your coupler is worn and should be replaced. Generally, if you notice the problem is just beginning, it'* not critical that you replace it right away, but plan on it soon. Refer to rebuilding nosedrives for procedures on changing the coupler yourself. This is a good time to totally rebuild your nosedrive if you feel you're up to it, but isn't always necessary unless you have bearing related problems also (great preventive maintenance, I suggest a nosedrive rebuild if you're changing the coupler). For M62'*, you'll need to remove the entire supercharger from the car. M90'* can pull the nosedrive without removing the supercharger.
Quote:
Grinding or excessive whining noises are generally a bearing issue (or your kids in the back seat). Use a mechanic'* stethoscope to determine where the noise is coming from. Keep in mind that some whine from the supercharger is normal due to the straight-cut gears in the nosedrive. This can become more prominent after changing to a smaller pulley or building a custom air intake. The supercharger or something nearby? Refer to Google for a typical warnings. Try a Google search on "how not to get your stethoscope tangled in the belts of a running engine". If the grinding or whining does seem to be coming from the supercharger, you'll need to remove the belt to diagnose further. After removing the belt, gently and slowly turn the pulley by hand, feeling for any roughness or grinding. Also move the pulley in and out if you can (as if you were trying to pull the pulley off the shaft or push it back on). Any slop or play in this direction is another indicator of bearing problems. If you find any bearing failure indicators with these tests, plan on either getting a rebuilt nosedrive/supercharger or rebuilding it yourself. Even if you're sure it'* only the nosedrive bearings, it'* a good idea to go ahead and replace the needle bearings in the supercharger itself also.
Try these steps and get back to us, or drive it down to Corvallis, and we'll look at it together.
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Old 03-15-2007, 11:08 PM   #6
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Default we did check the play

Will Wren
Hi yes i GOT all your messages, thanks
we did check the play in the nose and took off the belt there was a lot of play. I am still driving it . not sure. but I would like your help.
shawn
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Old 03-15-2007, 11:48 PM   #7
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Play in which direction? That'* what we need to know.

If it'* just the coupler, we can talk you through it online. If it'* more involved, you'll be spending more than 50 bucks and you'll need some specialized tools.
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Old 03-18-2007, 02:31 PM   #8
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Default MOVEMENT OF NOSE IN SUPERCHARGER

hi WILL SORRY i THOUGHT I WAS IN FORCED INDUCTIONS. i DON'T KNOW I WILL HAVE TO CHECK WITH THE OTHER GUY WHO LOOKED AT IT. SO JUST WANT TO KNOW HOW SAFE IT IS TO DRIVE NOW.
SHAWN :(
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Old 03-18-2007, 02:37 PM   #9
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If it'* just the coupler rattling around athen it'* safe for a good while to drive.....well depending on how much play there is. It take about 1 - 1.5 hrs to replace usiung simple hand tools, but gives you a good opportunity to replace some gaskets while you're working on it when removing the supercharger from the car
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Old 03-18-2007, 03:03 PM   #10
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I'd say it'* not safe to drive until we find out exactly what directions the play is in.

Read that page again, and check yourself, so you can tell us from your own observations. In and out, back and forth, sideways, etc. We need you to check all those directions. While you're at it, check the level of the oil in the nosedrive.

We still don't know if it'* just a coupler until we get these questions answered. Also, please don't use all caps when typing. It'* like yelling on the internet.

If it'* just the coupler, we can talk you through it very easily. However, as Nate (lakeville) mentions, there'* alot of other stuff you should tackle at the same time.
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