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Forced Induction All questions and problems regarding Superchargers, Turbos, NOS, ZEX, intercoolers, water injection, etc.

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Old 10-21-2006, 12:40 PM   #11
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Quote:
Originally Posted by OLDsman105
Sorry to bring this up again but I thought of something. If water is being injected into the Lower intake manifold and the boost bypass opens up wouldn't you have the same problem with water getting on the rotors. Or would it evaporate in time?
It wouldn't be an issue in a static state. The incoming air is just going through the bypass, and into the LIM like an NA at that point, but the water isn't on then anyway. WI is commonly only delivered under boost. Either switched by RPM trigger, boost pressure trigger, or MAF frequency.
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Old 10-21-2006, 03:18 PM   #12
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I believe the concern is erosion of not only the rotor coating but also the aluminum itself when a significant amount of liquid is injected pre rotor. The little bit that is bound to recirculate with the bypass is not significant.
I was injecting almost a full popcan every minute.

I wil make my decision on whether to go post or pre rotor with my water injection after I pull my Gen 3 for a full inspection after a season of running the 50/50 water methanol mixture. Total useage was 2 gallons of methanol and 2 gallons of water.

I will also experiment with 100% methanol on the coating to see if there is a chemical reaction.
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Old 11-21-2006, 12:09 AM   #13
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So now I have removed the Gen 3 SC and inspected the internals and rotors.
It is absolutely washed clean. No residue at all on anything.
One rotor is perfect except for a small 1/2" long piece of coating missing on one of its three lobes.
The other rotor only has one rotor coated with epoxy. The other two are shiney clean aluminum.

One observation before I removed it, was when turning it manually by hand in one direction it squealed.
Then I started thinking about spraying liquid inside the SC and what it might do to the internal rotor bearings.

It might be possible to spray directly into the LIM but it'* tight and once installed, I wouldn't be able to remove it unless the SC is removed as well.

I still want to inject pre-rotor.
Maybe I will have to tear into the Gen 3 to inspect the bearings........
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Old 11-21-2006, 08:48 AM   #14
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Paul...with one rotor being stripped almost completely, I believe you are seeing where the air flows. Which side was clean, (with SC on motor..) front of car or back?

Personally, I'm looking for an air temp sensor that can be put into a lower intake at the moment. With the end of the LIM (by the SC outlet) being exposed you shouldn't have any problem injecting right near the outlet from the LIM
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Old 11-21-2006, 11:11 PM   #15
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Quote:
Paul...with one rotor being stripped almost completely, I believe you are seeing where the air flows. Which side was clean, (with SC on motor..) front of car or back?
Personally, I'm looking for an air temp sensor that can be put into a lower intake at the moment. With the end of the LIM (by the SC outlet) being exposed you shouldn't have any problem injecting right near the outlet from the LIM
Bill, I don't understand what you mean by ....seeing where the air flows.
The front side rotor is missing about half of its coating. The rear rotor is fine with only one small chip.
Are you suggesting that the water injection resulted in the coating loss

If you find an air temp sensor, PM me.
I can only see three possible locations for injecting...or temp sensor...into the LIM.
Passenger side under the snout, rear of the engine between Cyl.2 & 4 and front of the engine between Cyl. 3 & 5. Both locations would be inside the pocket under the
SC so wouldn't be accessible without removing the SC.
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Old 11-21-2006, 11:36 PM   #16
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 2000SilverBullet

If you find an air temp sensor, PM me.
Paul...if you get an Autometer Intake temp gague they come with a Temp sensor probe, that is made for what you are looking to do with it
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Old 11-21-2006, 11:40 PM   #17
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here are pics of Temp sensor placement Courtesy of INTENSE





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Old 11-22-2006, 12:05 AM   #18
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That is exactly the location I was referring to.

I will look into the Autometer air temp gauge and sensor. Thanks.
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Old 11-27-2006, 10:40 PM   #19
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I have an AutoMeter gauge on the way.
It'* a #4372 and retails for $293. Cdn
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Old 11-27-2006, 10:43 PM   #20
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Well, that rules out that idea for me. I kinda need a cheaper one for myself.
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