SC pulley swap
#21
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All I was planning on doing now is the pulley and the 180 thermostat. For now, I've opted to go with the k&n filter in my stock filter box. Perhaps later I'll go with the CAI. This is mostly alll that I'll do. So, is the 3.5 still the best choice with the stat and the CAI? It'* what I'm leaning toward, but I'd like to know what you think. I have no desire to change my engine parts in the forseeable future. I know that a better set of mufflers would increase the rate of exhaust speed, but I'm not sure I'll be able to justify throwing my perfectly good ones away for a few hp'*. Perhaps I will, but not at this time. Don't get me wrong, I would love to have better horsepower errr exhaust!
How much hp'* will a better exhaust give me on average, anyway and how much would two mufflers cost. Mind you They'd have to be ss or something else as durable as the factory ones. My old '92 ssei still has the origional ones installed. They last like forever.
I bought my ssei from a dealer used. I got it last june and purchased a 5 year 60k mile extended warranty on it for a whopping 15or 1600 bucks! So I don't want to go to crazy while under warranty. Can you see it.... I'm broke down on the side of the road. I'm calling AAA on my cell phone while desperately trying to remove my CAI, pulley, and the rest of the stuff before they get here and haul it off to my dealer to get it fixed. One hand on the phone and a wrench in the other. I'm telling them ya I'm broke down, but please take your time....I've got work to do before you arrive! :o
Also, my friend told me that the car'* computer will still give me away because it records my ranges so the dealer would still find out I had some mods going on. Has anyone ever ran into this problem?
Anyway, after the warranty I'll be much more likely to have some serious fun, but 'till then how far do you think I can go without reniging on my warranty because of a sudden breakdown that calls for a trip to the dealer? I don't go there for casual servicing. Heck, I've only been there once to get the regulator replaced on my back window. I either service it myself, or else go to lube stop or somewhere like it.
Anyway, ya'll let me know what you think. If I do get the 3.5, the stat, the CAI, and the better mufflers will this all work together without any other changes? How much HP will I have approximately? Would the 3.5 still be the best choice? Mind you that this is my everyday car. It'* not my weekend car so I don't want anything too crazy that will shorten it'* life. Thanks!
How much hp'* will a better exhaust give me on average, anyway and how much would two mufflers cost. Mind you They'd have to be ss or something else as durable as the factory ones. My old '92 ssei still has the origional ones installed. They last like forever.
I bought my ssei from a dealer used. I got it last june and purchased a 5 year 60k mile extended warranty on it for a whopping 15or 1600 bucks! So I don't want to go to crazy while under warranty. Can you see it.... I'm broke down on the side of the road. I'm calling AAA on my cell phone while desperately trying to remove my CAI, pulley, and the rest of the stuff before they get here and haul it off to my dealer to get it fixed. One hand on the phone and a wrench in the other. I'm telling them ya I'm broke down, but please take your time....I've got work to do before you arrive! :o
Also, my friend told me that the car'* computer will still give me away because it records my ranges so the dealer would still find out I had some mods going on. Has anyone ever ran into this problem?
Anyway, after the warranty I'll be much more likely to have some serious fun, but 'till then how far do you think I can go without reniging on my warranty because of a sudden breakdown that calls for a trip to the dealer? I don't go there for casual servicing. Heck, I've only been there once to get the regulator replaced on my back window. I either service it myself, or else go to lube stop or somewhere like it.
Anyway, ya'll let me know what you think. If I do get the 3.5, the stat, the CAI, and the better mufflers will this all work together without any other changes? How much HP will I have approximately? Would the 3.5 still be the best choice? Mind you that this is my everyday car. It'* not my weekend car so I don't want anything too crazy that will shorten it'* life. Thanks!
#22
Sounds like you are planning some minor reductions in your intake and exhaust restrictions. I still think that you should go with the 3.4"
There will only be about a 5 hp difference between the two but as dbtk2 says is true, 5 points of knock retard will take away the added 5 hp. But if you keep your intake charge cool and open it up with a freer breathing more laminar flowing cone type you shouldn't get any KR.
I don't necessarily want to throw away my stock mufflers either. My wife insists on me keeping it quiet......"any other power mods are fine but just don't make it loud like the Firebird"......
I will leave in the resonator also. It'* a flow through type that can't have significant losses.
I can get away with an off road pipe (sans converter) because of where I live and with the addition of ceramic coated tube headers that should give some relatively quiet hp improvements and allow going to the 3.25" pulley.
The 1.9 rockers are less expensive than the headers but I don't want to do basic engine mods yet with such a virginous engine. Give it a couple of years.
There will only be about a 5 hp difference between the two but as dbtk2 says is true, 5 points of knock retard will take away the added 5 hp. But if you keep your intake charge cool and open it up with a freer breathing more laminar flowing cone type you shouldn't get any KR.
I don't necessarily want to throw away my stock mufflers either. My wife insists on me keeping it quiet......"any other power mods are fine but just don't make it loud like the Firebird"......
I will leave in the resonator also. It'* a flow through type that can't have significant losses.
I can get away with an off road pipe (sans converter) because of where I live and with the addition of ceramic coated tube headers that should give some relatively quiet hp improvements and allow going to the 3.25" pulley.
The 1.9 rockers are less expensive than the headers but I don't want to do basic engine mods yet with such a virginous engine. Give it a couple of years.
#23
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Anyway, ya'll let me know what you think. If I do get the 3.5, the stat, the CAI, and the better mufflers will this all work together without any other changes? How much HP will I have approximately? Would the 3.5 still be the best choice? Mind you that this is my everyday car. It'* not my weekend car so I don't want anything too crazy that will shorten it'* life. Thanks!
Personally if I were in your position I would definately get the 3.5" pulley. It will almost guaruntee you no KR, and you won't have to make sure you always fill up with 93 & 94 octane, you will actually be able to run 91 & 92 like you should be able to. I can tell you from my experience that a CAI & T-stat are NOT going to get rid of your KR with a 3.4" pulley. The 3.5 is definately the best choice, as you are looking for a daily driver with a bit more power, not a race car. That setup (3.5 pulley, CAI, t-stat, and maybe exhaust work) is a great setup for the street and will really wake up your car. You should gain probably 25hp & 45-50lb. ft. with those mods, putting you at 265hp, 330tq. assuming the factory ratings of 240/280 apply to your car.
I see no reason why that setup wouldn't work without any other mods, but the one thing I will suggest is 1 range colder spark plugs to go along with that, just for that extra safety.
#24
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I see no reason why that setup wouldn't work without any other mods, but the one thing I will suggest is 1 range colder spark plugs to go along with that, just for that extra safety.
I've listened to what everyone has said and I'm probably going with the 180 stat, 3.5 pulley, the plugs you recommend, and the k&n filter I've already installed(not CAI just the square filter in the existing box). This way I'll be 260-265 hp and that'* good for me!.
Thanks!
#25
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I can't remember the plugs off of the top of my head because stupid AC-Delco changed the number on them. The number used to be 41-932, but they changed it to *I believe* 41-921. I am going to look it up to make sure, but you should be able to go into Autozone or a store like that and give them the 41-932 number and they should be able to give you the new number for it.
#26
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I tried Autozone, but they didn't have them they wanted me to get the "equivalent" Champion plug, but there'* a store by me called Murray'* discount auto who says thay have the ac delco 41-932 @5.49. I'm still looking to see if I can get better, but though they're talked about all over the net, those plugs are fairly hard to find. I'm going to try the number that you think is the new number and see what I come up with as well.
Take care!
Take care!
#27
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What'* up with the iridium NGK'*? Are they even better than the 41-932 ac'*? Which ones(model and/or stock number) would I need to get if I wanted one heat range colder in the ngk brand? Anyone?
#28
I can't remember the plugs off of the top of my head because stupid AC-Delco changed the number on them. The number used to be 41-932, but they changed it to *I believe* 41-921. I am going to look it up to make sure, but you should be able to go into Autozone or a store like that and give them the 41-932 number and they should be able to give you the new number for it.
#29
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$15.15 ea Cdn.
hmmmm....maybe I could start a buisness buying & selling plugs.
If you end up not being able to get them, you can always get hte 1.5 range colder 41-919'*.
#30
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I found them (ac delco 41-932) online @4.95 a piece. Here'* the web address: www.nationalfleetparts.com You can pay through pay-pal if you have an account, if not you can still use a creditcard, but not your discover if you got one.