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Old 08-26-2004, 11:51 PM   #1
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Default rattling noise from */c?

Hi,
My moms buick park avenue ultra has a rattling noise coming from the */c at idle. The car drives fine and only makes this noise when idling. I did a search and found out its probably the */c coupler that needs to be replaced. My question is, should I remove the whole supercharger to replace the coupler? Thank you
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Old 08-27-2004, 12:07 AM   #2
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What year? It'* a bonneville right?
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Old 08-27-2004, 12:15 AM   #3
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Removing the whole thing is the easest fastest, and really only way to do it.

besides it'* so damn cool in there.
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Old 08-27-2004, 12:18 AM   #4
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Don't even attempt to remove the nosedrive by itself. You'll get pissed and push the car off the cliff.

Get the supercharger outlet gasket, TB gasket, and anything else you want from the dealer, and get the coupler from www.zzperformance.com

I suggest reading ALOT here in Forced Induction before you begin. Especially the sticky post up at the top of the forum, and do a search on "rebuild" or "coupler" in Forced Induction.

Torque specs are in Techinfo, Specifications at the top of the page, but I still strongly suggest a service manual of some type.
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Old 08-27-2004, 01:57 AM   #5
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Quote:
Originally Posted by willwren
Don't even attempt to remove the nosedrive by itself. You'll get pissed and push the car off the cliff.

Get the supercharger outlet gasket, TB gasket, and anything else you want from the dealer, and get the coupler from www.zzperformance.com

I suggest reading ALOT here in Forced Induction before you begin. Especially the sticky post up at the top of the forum, and do a search on "rebuild" or "coupler" in Forced Induction.

Torque specs are in Techinfo, Specifications at the top of the page, but I still strongly suggest a service manual of some type.
Thanks. Just ordered the coupler from zzperformance.com
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Old 08-27-2004, 03:10 AM   #6
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Easy Job, just takes basic metric hand tools and the parts. You didn't say what year, but there are a lot of people here that can help

ken
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Old 08-27-2004, 08:06 PM   #7
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Quote:
Originally Posted by kennlee
Easy Job, just takes basic metric hand tools and the parts. You didn't say what year, but there are a lot of people here that can help

ken
Its a 1994 Buick park avenue ultra. They have the same engines and superchargers as the bonnevilles. I looked over the step by step process and it didn't look too bad. I'll give it a shot and if I get into any trouble I'll give your guys a hollar. Thanks
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Old 08-27-2004, 08:31 PM   #8
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Just make sure you use nothing but 'intake safe' cleaner on the TB and SC. Some carb cleaners and brake cleaners will remove the teflon coating on the SC rotors.

Insure the TB is totally dry before re-installing the MAF sensor.

Contrary to popular belief, the rotors are NOT coated with Teflon to lubricate them from contact. The rotors never touch (and they better not!), it'* to help prevent carbon buildup considering the location of the EGR inlet.
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Old 08-28-2004, 03:22 AM   #9
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The 94 is the Series I and is a easy job, just take it off as a unit or you'll drive yourself nuts trying to get the nose off. There are several step-by-step how to'* on the subject, including page 2 of my web site below. There is also a list of parts and where to get them.

ken
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Old 08-28-2004, 05:09 PM   #10
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Quote:
Originally Posted by kennlee
The 94 is the Series I and is a easy job, just take it off as a unit or you'll drive yourself nuts trying to get the nose off. There are several step-by-step how to'* on the subject, including page 2 of my web site below. There is also a list of parts and where to get them.

ken
Thanks, I already visited your site and printed out the step by step instructions. Hopefully everything goes smoothly. I'll let you guys know how everything turns out in a couple of weeks when I give it a try.
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