i have a question for the nitrous guys here. what is the biggest shot i can get out of a 95 ssei with makin timing adjustments. i have either a 55 or 60 on here right now i was thinkin of a 75 shot since i already have the pills for it but it says to retard the timing but that was for a 4 banger chevy any help will be greatly appreciated

The warning regarding pulling out timing on a nitrous shot is to prevent detonation. And it can happen at *any* level of shot. Use high octane gas, change plug heat range, and stay on the rich side on the mixture. That will keep you out of trouble.

Just curious, how were you planning on altering the timing? Using something like a Crane TRC module?

actually i wasnt planing on messing with the timing because i have no way of doin it. i only have a 55 shot and its wet so i shouldnt lean out on it i also have ngk tr55`* in so im good on that part and alot of new sensors had a problem for a while couldnt quite figure it out but i finally got it it was the egr valve so i just got rid of it

If your wet shot has seperate fuel jets, then get a spare couple that are a few numeric sizes larger than the one recommended. (i.e. bigger fuel jet gets tried out first, then work back down toward the smaller, leaner fuel jet.)

One approach to altering the ignition timing is the same way the PCM commands it. (Pin A on the coil pack is the EST signal from the ECM to the coil module.)

GM, in their infinate wisdom, kept the signalling the same as on the HEI ignitions that predated the coil packs (it'* kinda a "super" HEI module)

With that, you should be able to insert one of the aftermarket timing retard units into the ignition wiring between the ECM and the coil pack. They all work the same, taking the timing signal from the ECM and modifying it before it reaches the ignition module. The way the modules work (I'll use Crane Cams TRC-1 as an example) you dial the amount of timing retard you want. An input lead from the nitrous switch turns the module on when the nitrous solenoids are being opened, and the module starts altering the signal from the ECM to the ignition module under the coils...dumping the timing by the number of degrees you dialed in.

If you don't want to go boom, don't mess with it without doing what Curt suggests. Timing and boost (especially Nitrous) are very critical interreleated issues.

its been a while since ive been online. i put the 55 shot on and everything is good sprayed it in the nieghborhood and pulled the pulgs about 4 or 5 times just to be safe. went to the track and ran a 15.6 in the 1/4. that didnt seem to good to me but it is a beast of a car. who else makes the timing retard units. and how much do they run?

15.6? You have something SERIOUSLY wrong. My 95 ran almost a 15 flat bone stock with serious problems (purchased literally 2 days before).

would a bad torque converter clutch mess it up. for some reason i believe mine is bad

there was a series 2 in a rivera i believe that only ran a 15.1 that night but he said he had a little bit of traction problems. i think i had tranny problems for a while i have another thread in 92-99 forum. i blew my diff up

Your diff had no bearing on it. It either worked or it didn't.

Your TC clutch would have never been engaged on the strip. You have engine/tuning problems.

That Riv actually weighed MORE than your car, and should have been slightly slower to begin with, not even counting your nitrous.