Ah yes. I checked out your site. I understand now. Turning that masterpiece into
a grenade would be so so sad.

Now I'm undecided as well as more informed. I don't want to frag the car . I just want some more speed and I cant think of much else to do ... besides spend the big bucks like you did. I promised myself I wouldn't go nuts on this car. I've urinated away huge ( to me ) sums of money on cars in my lifetime.


JLathem

I don't want to hijack here.. but I think this can apply to all the readers.

What is a mileage limit on the cars? Like I have 150,000 miles on mine, does that mean without a rebuild I shouldn't even think of playing with the stuff? Also.. for the N/A guys.. wet or dry? Just so we don't limit this all to new, */C'd engines.


-justin

You can do wet on an N/A from what I understand, but I went simple with a dry shot to avoid spraying anything "wet" over the MAF. A TB spacer would have been useful if I wanted to get around that.

My 94 was at 140k miles when it took its last shot on the original tranny. Yeah...

Allmachtige I have a 92 lesabre what the recomendation for that its a L27 non SC whats the limit on a n2o system what do you think? just looking for ideas. i have 90k on orig engine and orig trans both running mint and well maintained i want some extra power but dont want to rip up the motor or trans what is your set up? do you have a link?

You probably don't have an EGR because you drive a 92, weather or not that will harm you is unknown to me, but first off take your time to get the essentials out of the way. What ignition system does your 92 have? 3 seperate coils or a single magnavox(sp?)?
I ask because I ended up replacing the coils for MSD blasters, but from the data BonnevilleClub has gathered Series II coils should be about equal in performance benefits. You will also need to upgrade the ignition wires to something a little more robust. MSD'* were my choice, Taylors should work fine (but have been disputed recenntly) or you can shell out big bucks for PRJ'*. In all reality a nice new set of Delco wires could probably suit you fine, but it never hurts anything other than your wallet to go for more expensive wires. Next step would be upgrading the sparkplugs to at least 1 range cooler. I recommend NGK TR55'* and I was able to run the NGK TR6'* (2 ranges cooler) at the track effectively. Start by gapping them to .055. From here I recommend at least an Air/Fuel ratio gauge you can see while you drive, but a scanner would be the best choice for monitoring constant PCM data from your engine. I also HIGHLY recommend a mini AFC 2.0 from the good people at Tech-Edge. It'* a small tool that plugs in-line with your MAF sensor and harness to allow the driver to change the rich/lean condition of the incoming fuel mixture at each Hz value on the MAF. You can get one of these AFC'* at www.ZZPerformance.com.

At this point you should be ready for nitrous. I went with a dry shot on my 94, but would do a wet shot behind the MAF if I did it over again. I was spraying the dry shot right over the MAF and it still seems to have survived, but it certainly isn't good for it. I always ran 93 octane and the 75 dry shot at the track. I had plans to experiment with slightly largers shots, managable tuning, and higher octane, but personal feelings towards the expense:outcome ratio forced me to stop altogether.

Good luck and be sure to ask if you have ANY questions.

97 and up GTP or SSEi coils specifically. Not L36 coils. They remained the same as the 92 1/2-96 coils.

nah i like msd i was planning on getting the coil packs from them ne ways

also thank you for you ideas i will be researching so i dont blow up my car lol

check out another thread started by me in this same forum. I need a little help too. IF you could find any info on why you might need to retard your timing and how it will affect tuning, and maybe some info on spark plug gapping, i would really appriciate it.

A nitrous/fuel mixture increases the burn rate in the cylinder, and typically adding a few degrees of timing retard is recommended for safety. A rule of thumb is two degrees per 50hp of nitrous, but this will also reduce the power generated. When I tune my system, I monitor engine knock, and retard the timing only enough to eliminate the knock, which is usually about one degree per 50hp. At the track, under harder conditions (actually pulling the weight of the car, possibly higher outdoor temperatures, etc) I'll add a degree of retard.

Generally you want to use copper spark plugs as opposed to the stock platinum ones. You also want to reduce the gap from the stock 0.050" down to 0.035"-0.040". I've received a couple notes on why you use a smaller gap. "The reason you want a smaller gap is because of ionization. If you change from the typical air (78%nitrogen, 21% oxygen)/fuel ratio, a given gap requires more energy to ionize the mixture, resulting in less energy in the spark, if you even get a spark. You could also increase the coil voltage instead of decreasing the gap, but I think using a smaller gap would be preferential since the spark time will be smaller." and also this message: "The reason that you will close the gap on your spark plugs is because when nitrous is added, it raises the cylinder pressure, much like a supercharger. Therefore "blowing" the spark out. When you close the gap it cannot put out the spark as easily."

(The details in the spark plug area are using stock numbers for a different car, but the theory remains)

http://www.go-fast.org/z28/new_to_nitrous.html