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Forced Induction All questions and problems regarding Superchargers, Turbos, NOS, ZEX, intercoolers, water injection, etc.

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Old 01-20-2006, 12:30 AM   #11
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I tried to move the */C, no luck, engine cranks and runs fine, electric is fine, all fine, excep the */C hottdamnit.
So, im in the market for an */C (m45 if im not mistaken ?)
And is there a how-to guide to replace the supercharger here somewhere ? i made a search but found unrelated topics. Sorry if i missed something , i did use the SEARCH lol.
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Old 01-20-2006, 01:02 AM   #12
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Mafia_Insurance
I tried to move the */C, no luck, engine cranks and runs fine, electric is fine, all fine, excep the */C hottdamnit.
So, im in the market for an */C (m45 if im not mistaken ?)
And is there a how-to guide to replace the supercharger here somewhere ? i made a search but found unrelated topics. Sorry if i missed something , i did use the SEARCH lol.
the SC on your car is a M62
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Old 01-20-2006, 09:37 AM   #13
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Mafia_Insurance
I tried to move the */C, no luck, engine cranks and runs fine, electric is fine, all fine, excep the */C hottdamnit.
So, im in the market for an */C (m45 if im not mistaken ?)
And is there a how-to guide to replace the supercharger here somewhere ? i made a search but found unrelated topics. Sorry if i missed something , i did use the SEARCH lol.
You're telling me you can't turn the SC by hand? What does it do when you start the car with the belt on it? Does it turn, or does the belt slip, or does the motor not start?

If it truly won't turn, you're not drivable anyway. Get it off there and take a look at it. It may only be a siezed Nosedrive.

To remove:

Remove the plastic cover.
Disconnect the throttle cables.
Disconnect and label all vacuum lines.
Disconnect the fuel rail electrical and fuel connections.
Unbolt the fuel rail and gently lift it out (may need to pre-oil each injector in the LIM to free up)
Remove bolts holding SC to LIM.
Add another nut to the stud going through your alt bracket from the ND. Tighten them together and use the BACK nut to remove the entire stud.
Lift SC off.
Mark the nosedrive for where the long pin bolts for the small cover section go. Remove all ND bolts. Pop nd loose. Try to spin it. Try to spin rotor gears and rotors.

Decide which half the problem is in.

www.canadiansupercharger is your friend, or rebuild yourself.
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Old 01-20-2006, 10:38 AM   #14
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I'm with Willwren, having seen the inside of a supercharger..there is very little to seize up. That little bit is in the nosedrive.
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Old 01-20-2006, 12:51 PM   #15
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From what I read he is trying to turn it with the belt off and the car started.

Can you turn it with the belt off and the car off?
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Old 01-20-2006, 01:16 PM   #16
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Yes, */c belt was off and i cranked the car and it ran beautiful
the */c wont turn at all.
I dont understand this step
"Add another nut to the stud going through your alt bracket from the ND. Tighten them together and use the BACK nut to remove the entire stud. "
and whats LIM ? (lower intake manifold methinks ? yes ?)
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Old 01-21-2006, 05:35 PM   #17
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Mafia_Insurance
Yes, */c belt was off and i cranked the car and it ran beautiful
the */c wont turn at all.
I dont understand this step
"Add another nut to the stud going through your alt bracket from the ND. Tighten them together and use the BACK nut to remove the entire stud. "
and whats LIM ? (lower intake manifold methinks ? yes ?)
You need two nuts on the stud to remove it. Tighten them together, and use the one closest to where the stud comes from to turn the stud out. It'* basically the same as having a bolt in there when you use that trick.
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Old 01-22-2006, 09:06 PM   #18
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AAAAAAAH !
Now i get it, my bad.
Have you noticed that when you wanna do something, everything else needs to be done ?
freck
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Old 02-11-2006, 01:41 PM   #19
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Ok, is there a section where i can find a collection of engine bay pics for this same type of engine ?


1.Disconnect the throttle cables. How is this done best ? should i use that dialectric grease ? Im gonna label each one. I see the throttle body has a plate on top, do i need to disconect the whole throttle body in order to proceed ?

Disconnect and label all vacuum lines. self explanatory. Should i be extra careful or look out for any special ones that have history of failing after 13 years ? should i replace anything since im here?

Disconnect the fuel rail electrical and fuel connections. Also self explanatory.

Unbolt the fuel rail and gently lift it out (may need to pre-oil each injector in the LIM to free up) What should i pre-oil them with ? should i look into changing or checking for failure here ? what are the signs? what should i upgrade ? all input is very appreciated.

Remove bolts holding SC to LIM. Will also preoil if needed, any reccomendations ? Tool reccomendations ?

Add another nut to the stud going through your alt bracket from the ND. Tighten them together and use the BACK nut to remove the entire stud. What size is this stud ? metric or other ? (i am such a n00b hehe). Should i replace the stud ?

Lift SC off. Can i say AMEN and have a freakin beer ?

Mark the nosedrive for where the long pin bolts for the small cover section go. Remove all ND bolts. Pop nd loose. Try to spin it. Try to spin rotor gears and rotors.

more info, all appreciated thank yous. hehehe.
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Old 02-11-2006, 02:27 PM   #20
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Mafia_Insurance
1. Disconnect the throttle cables. How is this done best ? should i use that dialectric grease ? Im gonna label each one. I see the throttle body has a plate on top, do i need to disconect the whole throttle body in order to proceed ?

2. Disconnect and label all vacuum lines. self explanatory. Should i be extra careful or look out for any special ones that have history of failing after 13 years ? should i replace anything since im here?

3. Disconnect the fuel rail electrical and fuel connections. Also self explanatory.

4. Unbolt the fuel rail and gently lift it out (may need to pre-oil each injector in the LIM to free up) What should i pre-oil them with ? should i look into changing or checking for failure here ? what are the signs? what should i upgrade ? all input is very appreciated.

5. Remove bolts holding SC to LIM. Will also preoil if needed, any reccomendations ? Tool reccomendations ?

6. Add another nut to the stud going through your alt bracket from the ND. Tighten them together and use the BACK nut to remove the entire stud. What size is this stud ? metric or other ? (i am such a n00b hehe). Should i replace the stud ?

7. Lift SC off. Can i say AMEN and have a freakin beer ?

8. Mark the nosedrive for where the long pin bolts for the small cover section go. Remove all ND bolts. Pop nd loose. Try to spin it. Try to spin rotor gears and rotors.
1. When we say throttle cables, we don't mean to the sensors, but disconnect those, too. The IAC, MAF, and TPS connectors. The throttle cables (one for gas pedal, one for cruise control) are attached to the throttle linkage with spring clips. Mark the sheath of the cables TOP and BOTTOM. Remove the spring clips and put them in a safe place. Use needlnose pliers or a screwdriver to release the sheath clamps from the metal throttle bracket and pull them out of the bracket and out of the way. You'll have to remove the crossover pipe heatshield (bolted to the rear head) in order to release the throttle bracket. The throttle bracket shares one stud with the heatshield, and also attaches to the TB with two screws on top of the TB, and another point at one of the TB to SC studs. Save the nuts. You'll need them later.

2. Replace any vacuum line that looks cracked or broken. Twist each gently to release it before removing. It'* a good idea to shoot some pics of the top end first so you can refer back to it if necessary during installation. There'* quite a few lines there.

3. Disconnect the fuel injector connectors by pressing inward with your thumb on the little metal clip, then pull the connector upwards. Don't pry these clips out, press them in. Fuel connections are quick release. Squeeze the white parts towards each other, then pull apart with a rag underneath.

4. Any oil. Work 'em around as much as they'll move to help it work in. After you get the rail out (lift each injector a little at a time, work your way around until the rail wants to come up, don't forget the 10mm bolt near the FPR) replace the fuel injector O-rings. Get the kit at the dealer.

5. 10mm socket with an extension. Nothing needs to be pre-oiled.

6. Remove your crossover pipe heatshield and throttle body first. You'll find the nut you need for this. No need to replace the stud. You'll re-use it.

7. You should have already had 3 or 4 by now (8 for rookies cuz you took too damn long to get to this point). Have another. I find a good shot of tequila is great at this point.

8. Yup.

Also try a work in progress: http://www.williamwren.com/superchargers/index.html
and:

http://www.williamwren.com/Bonnevill...umba/page1.htm You'll see some interesting stuff here if you scroll through the pages. Including two scanned pages from Magnusson on supercharger disassembly.
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