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Forced Induction All questions and problems regarding Superchargers, Turbos, NOS, ZEX, intercoolers, water injection, etc.

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Old 07-02-2006, 12:44 AM   #11
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Quote:
Originally Posted by dubdeuce
the boost act. valve. seems to have full movement when I dic. the top vac. hose.

the belt ten. has three marks close together (1/8 of a inch apart) and a fourth mark about 1/4 of an inch from the last close mark. the arrow on the tensioner is in the middle of the quarter inch gap. like this >> | | | |. mark is in the midde of the wider gap.

My MPG is around 20-21 avg. Not many highway miles and driving pretty smooth, no hard accelerations etc. is this about normal? thnks again
You are weak on tension. You should be very close to the 3 marks close together to prevent belt slip. But I don't think that'* the only problem. Have you ever used any kind of cleaning solvents or chemicals on the car while it'* running?
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Old 07-02-2006, 02:13 AM   #12
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cleaners while the car is running?? I used Seafoam once, through the vac. hose like I read on this site. Thats about it nothing on top of the motor.?? thnks.
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Old 07-02-2006, 03:40 AM   #13
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Seafoam doesn't that foul your plugs out?

Anyway hows your air filter looking? Whats everyone think about unhooking the batt for 45mins or so to clear everything?

Ed
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Old 07-02-2006, 11:16 AM   #14
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i used seafoam right before a tune up and oil change. I just replaced my aiffilter 3 days ago with a KN filter. thnks
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Old 07-02-2006, 12:05 PM   #15
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Possibilites are the Boost Solonoid, Boost actuator, belt slip, bad MAP sensor, vacuum leak, wiring problem, or degraded coating on the SC rotors.


Let'* start with the actuator and solonoid. Look carefully at this pic:

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See the yellow vacuum line going from the Actuator to the Solonoid? Yours is black rubber. Disconnect it from the actuator (upper connection) and put something in it that will block the vacuum leak (tic-tac or similar).

Go for a drive. How much boost?
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Old 07-02-2006, 12:17 PM   #16
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Quote:
Disconnect it from the actuator (upper connection) and put something in it that will block the vacuum leak (tic-tac or similar).
Block the vacuum can disconnected port.
I don't recommend doing that. Leave it open
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Old 07-02-2006, 12:31 PM   #17
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Not the ACTUATOR port. Block the VAC line that is disconnected FROM the actuator to prevent a vacuum leak when the solonoid opens.

This is a troubleshooting step. Not something you want to do on an everyday basis.
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Old 07-02-2006, 09:05 PM   #18
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i disc. the line stuck a golf tee in it and took it for a short ride. max boost before shift was about 5.5-6. thnks again
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Old 07-02-2006, 09:57 PM   #19
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Okay. On our way then. It'* not the boost control solonoid. So much for the cheap fix. (this is assuming you disconnected and plugged the right connector!)

Now look at this pic:

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See the vacuum connection to the top of the actuator? Comes out the passenger side on your car? With the car idling, the actuator should be in the OPPOSITE state as this. Fully bypassed, or retracted up into the actuator. If you disconnect that top line, the actuator should fully extend, taking the car out of bypass. On the end of the shaft, it'* attached to a lever on the supercharger itself. It should travel FULLY 90 between the bypass and boost stops.

Bypass points straight up, full boost is horizontal, resting on the tab closest to the #5 (front driver'* side) fuel injector.

Did the actuator achieve full travel?
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Old 07-02-2006, 10:34 PM   #20
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yes when I disconnect it it moves fully
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