Just a few ???
Originally Posted by dubdeuce
the boost act. valve. seems to have full movement when I dic. the top vac. hose.
the belt ten. has three marks close together (1/8 of a inch apart) and a fourth mark about 1/4 of an inch from the last close mark. the arrow on the tensioner is in the middle of the quarter inch gap. like this >> | | | |. mark is in the midde of the wider gap.
My MPG is around 20-21 avg. Not many highway miles and driving pretty smooth, no hard accelerations etc. is this about normal? thnks again
the belt ten. has three marks close together (1/8 of a inch apart) and a fourth mark about 1/4 of an inch from the last close mark. the arrow on the tensioner is in the middle of the quarter inch gap. like this >> | | | |. mark is in the midde of the wider gap.
My MPG is around 20-21 avg. Not many highway miles and driving pretty smooth, no hard accelerations etc. is this about normal? thnks again
Possibilites are the Boost Solonoid, Boost actuator, belt slip, bad MAP sensor, vacuum leak, wiring problem, or degraded coating on the SC rotors.
Let'* start with the actuator and solonoid. Look carefully at this pic:

See the yellow vacuum line going from the Actuator to the Solonoid? Yours is black rubber. Disconnect it from the actuator (upper connection) and put something in it that will block the vacuum leak (tic-tac or similar).
Go for a drive. How much boost?
Let'* start with the actuator and solonoid. Look carefully at this pic:

See the yellow vacuum line going from the Actuator to the Solonoid? Yours is black rubber. Disconnect it from the actuator (upper connection) and put something in it that will block the vacuum leak (tic-tac or similar).
Go for a drive. How much boost?
Disconnect it from the actuator (upper connection) and put something in it that will block the vacuum leak (tic-tac or similar).
I don't recommend doing that. Leave it open
Not the ACTUATOR port. Block the VAC line that is disconnected FROM the actuator to prevent a vacuum leak when the solonoid opens.
This is a troubleshooting step. Not something you want to do on an everyday basis.
This is a troubleshooting step. Not something you want to do on an everyday basis.
Okay. On our way then. It'* not the boost control solonoid. So much for the cheap fix. (this is assuming you disconnected and plugged the right connector!)
Now look at this pic:

See the vacuum connection to the top of the actuator? Comes out the passenger side on your car? With the car idling, the actuator should be in the OPPOSITE state as this. Fully bypassed, or retracted up into the actuator. If you disconnect that top line, the actuator should fully extend, taking the car out of bypass. On the end of the shaft, it'* attached to a lever on the supercharger itself. It should travel FULLY 90° between the bypass and boost stops.
Bypass points straight up, full boost is horizontal, resting on the tab closest to the #5 (front driver'* side) fuel injector.
Did the actuator achieve full travel?
Now look at this pic:

See the vacuum connection to the top of the actuator? Comes out the passenger side on your car? With the car idling, the actuator should be in the OPPOSITE state as this. Fully bypassed, or retracted up into the actuator. If you disconnect that top line, the actuator should fully extend, taking the car out of bypass. On the end of the shaft, it'* attached to a lever on the supercharger itself. It should travel FULLY 90° between the bypass and boost stops.
Bypass points straight up, full boost is horizontal, resting on the tab closest to the #5 (front driver'* side) fuel injector.
Did the actuator achieve full travel?



