Cheapest and best way to fix SuperCharger ? Updated w/ Pics - Page 3 - GM Forum - Buick, Cadillac, Chev, Olds, GMC & Pontiac chat


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Old 07-16-2006, 04:20 PM   #21
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You cannot replace the bearings and seals in the rotor end of the support plate without a factory jig to keep the rotor timing correct.

Trust me. I tried. And I've rebuilt plenty of superchargers. You will end up paying for bearings and seals, then scrapping anyway. Particularly if you find that the outer bearing race damaged the SC. It also looks as if one of your needle bearings was running overly hot. Look at the coloration difference between your rotor shafts on the TB end in the pic above.

Rebuilding that unit is a losing proposition.
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Old 07-16-2006, 09:07 PM   #22
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this site is pretty decent too
http://www.thehighspeedlab.com/catalogsc008.html
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Old 07-17-2006, 11:16 AM   #23
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Dutch..If you find it'* toast..

PM 1993 SLE.. he might still have a whole SC available for your year.
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Old 07-19-2006, 08:54 PM   #24
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I gotta try and rebuild the back end myself. I'm not trying to be stuborn or tick you off man, just can't afford $1200 for a whole rebuilt unit + gaskets. I would rather be out the $150 core charge and possibly save myself hundreds, as not try at all. If it scrapes at all then I won't install it and I'll eat the core charge and order one from the website.
I'm going to get the nose from Canadian Superchargers.

I'm going to try and do the rotor bearings, seals and the needle bearings.
I've already marked the gears and the rotors with a punch so I have a way to line them up after for timing. I'm also going to mark the shafts with a fine point marker so I have a way to line up the rotor depth on the shaft.

I found a website that has instructions for a similar */C rebuild:

http://www.sccoa.com/forums/showthre...d+instructions

The coloration difference on the rotor shafts in the picture, is excess grease on one of them (If I understand what you are looking at).

In your experience were do they end up scrapping ?

In the pictures from your rebuild how-to, how did you get the inside of the rotor casting so clean ? With a Dremel & a polishing or sanding bit ?

http://www.bonnevilleclub.com/forum/...rgers/p&p.html

Thanks,
Dutch
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Old 07-20-2006, 01:02 AM   #25
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Dutch, I don't know who doubled your quote, but I could buy almost THREE superchargers for that price.

In the pics you ask about, my superchargers are that clean because I run water injection.

On the rebuild of the back end, your needle bearings are cake if you know how to drill and tap, have a grease gun, and have a hydraulic press available.

The OTHER end is NOT. I'm an accomplished machinist (among other skills) with all the right tools at my disposal and the skills to back it up. I've rebuilt more superchargers here than anyone, and I was the first here to do it. I live, eat, and breathe Eaton superchargers.

And I'm telling you that your odds of success are very slim considering your nosedrive end rotor bearings are TOAST because the supercharger ran out of oil, and the chances that you can successfully even take it apart are so slim, it'* not even worth talking about getting it back together.

So you can buy all your parts and take a very real chance of flushing the money and having to buy another SC, or you can order another through www.canadiansupercharger.com for less than HALF the $1200 you posted and get it right the first time.

I personally wouldn't rebuild your supercharger if you paid me $500 and gave me the parts.
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Old 07-20-2006, 03:40 AM   #26
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I am getting the price correct I live in Toronto, Canada......
$360(Nose Cone) + $690(*/C) = $1050 + 15%(taxes) = $1207.50 + Shipping & possibly Customs fees = ?

I respect your option and I thank you and everyone else for your advice, warnings and help.

I will let you and everyone know what I end up doing.

Thanks,
Dutch
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Old 07-20-2006, 09:18 AM   #27
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If you insist on rebuilding, get an eBa USED supercharger and rebuild it, not the one on your car. That'* much cheaper.
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Old 07-25-2006, 06:21 PM   #28
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I ordered a rebuilt unit from Canadiansupercharger.com

I misunderstood the prices before.......$690+150 (Core Charge) is the price for the whole unit including the Nose Cone.
I thought it was $690 just for the back half + $360 for the Nose.

So I'm just waiting for it to be delivered.
Its going to end up costing around $900 including taxes & shipping - $150 when I return the Core.

I'm going to do the Upper & Lower Intake gaskets as well as, an Oil Change, new Coolant, Injector O-Rings & a Throttle Body Gasket.

Thanks for everyones advice and help,
Dutch
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Old 08-15-2006, 10:06 PM   #29
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Well shes all back together and runs Mint
All total it cost around $1200 (Canadian $) + an extra $300 to have the Injectors cleaned and a new Starter (which went right after I got it together and was trying to start her).

Thanks for everyones, help & advice,
Dutch
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