Cheapest and best way to fix SuperCharger ? Updated w/ Pics - Page 2 - GM Forum - Buick, Cadillac, Chev, Olds, GMC & Pontiac chat


Forced Induction All questions and problems regarding Superchargers, Turbos, NOS, ZEX, intercoolers, water injection, etc.

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Old 07-16-2006, 03:01 AM   #11
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thats what we are hear for.. get a Injector oring kit from your dealer and an Lower intake manifold gasket set as well..might as well do it all while its apart now..maybe do a good Throttle body cleaning and re gasket that as well?
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Old 07-16-2006, 03:08 AM   #12
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Ok, I will

I love this car and I've got big plans for it down the road if it doesn't die or break my wallet first

Thanks,
Dutch
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Old 07-16-2006, 03:14 AM   #13
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The wallet breaking thing can happen..lol..just gotta diagnose before throwing money at it, but this time, we have hit the nail on the head. Fresh coolant and oil after all this, and a new Thermostat..?
Oil change for sure..
change it, start it run it for 5 mins or so, then drain the oil change the filter add new oil and call it good, get all that coolant out of the engine..removing the Lower intake manifold can spill alot in. Inspect the oring in the one coolant pipe going into the LIM itself..its the one closes to the firewall i belive, that is a dealer item only, same with the two orings on the LIM that feet the Throttle body, they are yellow, order new ones for sure!
See spending money is easy..
LOL
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Old 07-16-2006, 03:39 AM   #14
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you can get one straight from magnusson for 500 bucks.
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Old 07-16-2006, 10:40 AM   #15
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Why is this topic running on and on in 92-99, when it should be in Forced Induction, and nobody even mentioned it?

Do NOT get just a nosedrive until you fully diagnose the problem and determine the rotor assembly and bearings are ok.

This is a SEVERE failure, and is very uncommon. I've only seen it once before, and that was from a 'questionable' rebuild as well.
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Old 07-16-2006, 01:28 PM   #16
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If the entire supercharger is shot, you may want to consider buying a used supercharger of ebay just make sure it is 92-93 modle years. The ebay ones go for about $125 or a little more.
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Old 07-16-2006, 01:34 PM   #17
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The eBay superchargers will need to be rebuilt if it'* used at that price.

Don't buy a rebuilt eBay supercharger without showing us the seller first. There'* a couple sheisters in business there.
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Old 07-16-2006, 02:58 PM   #18
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Sorry about it being in the wrong area of the Forums, I saw that after posting a few times.

I think the Nose is the only part of the */C thats bunt, the other half looks to be ok from what I can see.
I think the failure was caused by lack of oil (there was very little inside).
I drove the car for a few months off and on, last year then parked it for winter.
I figured the oil was fine as the */C was rebuilt alittle while before I got the car........Stupid mistake..........It won't happen again.
The funny thing is that the car didn't overheat it just stalled and coasted to a stop, probably cause I did the Rad, T-stat and Water pump last summer.

I would never buy a */C off, of ebay I would rather get soaked for a little more coin and know what I'm getting, thanks anyways for that suggestion though.

What should I be looking for in the main part of the */C when Inspecting it ?

The blades and the inside of the Intake Manifold look kind of Black but I assume thats how they usually look with age ?

Thanks again,

Dutch
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Old 07-16-2006, 03:14 PM   #19
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If you ran out of oil, scrap the whole thing. The SC oil also lubricates the rotor bearings on one end.

It'* toast.
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Old 07-16-2006, 03:56 PM   #20
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I already plan on buying a rebuilt Nose from the web site you guys suggested, but to buy the other end with the rotors in it would break my wallet.

I can not afford to scrap the whole thing I would rather change the Bearings and Seals myself and try to save some coin. It doesn't look that bad, just the nose.

I have a 50 ton Press, lots of tools and my father is a mechanic (He'* helping me) so I should be able to do it with some help and advice from you guys.
The only problem is that neither him or myself have any experience rebuilding a */C, lots of engines no */C'*.
It seems pretty easy so far.....

I have a couple more questions........

How do you get the rotor blades off ?
Do I pull the gears off first (With a puller) and then press the rotors blades out of the bearings ?

Thanks again,

Dutch
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