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Forced Induction All questions and problems regarding Superchargers, Turbos, NOS, ZEX, intercoolers, water injection, etc.

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Old 04-13-2005, 12:50 PM   #11
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Check your vacuum lines around the SC for leaks. Particularly around the BCS and BCA.

What octane of gas is she running? If it isn't at least 91 ocatne, that'* part of your problem, as the PCM is pulling timing, and boost would suffer.

Ultimately, this should be a cheap, easy fix. Most likely are the BCS (Boost control Solonoid), or a vacuum leak.

I'm moving this to Forced Induction.
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Old 04-13-2005, 01:20 PM   #12
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Don't upgrade to a small pulley until you get everything fixed.

Dropping to a 3.4 on a mostly stock car is dangerous.

http://www.zzperformance.com/article...081021481917e9
http://www.zzperformance.com/articles1.php?id=20

Read that stuff, and it will answer a lot of questions.
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Old 04-13-2005, 01:29 PM   #13
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Sol
Don't upgrade to a small pulley until you get everything fixed.
Sol'* right..... fix that boost problem first.
I'd look at the lines and make sure they are all good, I found more then 1 cracked end when I checked mine. Also if you're still getting poor boost, replace the BCS... Boost Control Solenoid.... that was the main part of my boost problem.

Now I've got plenty of boost.... 8-10psi....

But again.... get it fixed before you upgrade anything.
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Old 04-13-2005, 04:14 PM   #14
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Also, although this is unlikely, if the belt is off a rib or two on the crank, it will slip and will get low boost and peak up and down like you say. With a stock car, you don't want to drop the pulley size any farther than a 3.5" pulley for sure. Even with a 3.5 pulley you'll still want to do a CAI and probably a reprogrammed PCM along with the common colder t-stat and colder plugs.

Shawn
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Old 04-13-2005, 08:34 PM   #15
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Well, thanks for the info guys!
Yeah, I wasn't going to upgrade it. I thought 3lbs was normal, then I was thinking it was time for an upgrade. So, guess that wont happen.

I talked to a local GTP guy and he said it'* most likely the Boost Controller Solenoid as well. He'* gonna check it out for me on Saturday.

Thanks for the help.

How much does a Boost Solenoid cost?
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Old 04-13-2005, 08:45 PM   #16
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20-30 bones.
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Old 04-16-2005, 07:41 PM   #17
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Sol
Don't upgrade to a small pulley until you get everything fixed.

Dropping to a 3.4 on a mostly stock car is dangerous.
I run a 3.4" pulley on my 97 Riviera with just 1 range cooler plugs and Evans coolant. Before the pulley swap, I had KR at the 1-2 shift (a shuddering during the shift). Now, with Evans coolant, I have 0 detectable KR (with the butt-scanner). As soon as I can, I will upgrade the PCM, and I still don't expect to see any KR. After the PCM replace, I am going to scan it, and if there is 0 KR, then I am going to upgrade to a 3.25" and see how that goes. THis is all with the stock T-Stat and a 7# radiator cap.

The key to all of this is the Evans coolant. It eliminates hot spots in the combustion chamber which cause KR. In short, you are treating the problem and not the symptoms (like using a 160 T-stat or drilled one). I have contacted Thrasher and Intense and they said that they have never heard of Evans coolant. Perhaps this is because they never have, or maybe because if word got out that you could virtually eliminate KR for about $100, they wouldn't sell as many intercoolers.

Just my .03

www.evanscooling.com
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Old 04-16-2005, 08:44 PM   #18
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Your butt scanner isn't capable of detecting KR. Nobody'* is. Get a scan on a warm day. You're probably going to be surprised, especially with a 3.25.
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Old 04-16-2005, 11:02 PM   #19
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Quote:
Originally Posted by willwren
Your butt scanner isn't capable of detecting KR. Nobody'* is. Get a scan on a warm day. You're probably going to be surprised, especially with a 3.25.
I know that, what I was saying is that it isn't noticable like before.

When I do get a scan, it will be on a 90+ day at normal operating temp, so sometime this summer.
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Old 08-21-2005, 09:16 PM   #20
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Hello all, it'* been a few months, but I've got updates and still need help!!

A few months ago, I had a guy with a GTP check out the boost solenoid, but that didn't solve the problem at all. Like I said, the boost is about 3lbs, but occasionally will show 8lbs on WOT, but that'* only once per driving session usually, then back to 3lbs. The boost gauge is also bouncing and if I recall, isn't showing proper vaccum as well as bouncing on the vac. part.

I got some carb cleaner and srayed it around today, all around the SC lines and whatever vac. lines I could find, but I came-up with nothing. I may try lighting a cigar and seeing if it starts sucking smoke from somewhere.

So, I'm reasonably sure it'* not a vac. leak. I can tell the thing isn't running right, because when my Supercoupe was stock, they would have run about the same, but I can tell this thing is slower than my SC when it was stock.

So whats the deal with this thing!? I really want to get it running right so my girlfriend is happy with it and when I have to drive it, I'll be happy with it
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