3.4 verses 3.5 pulley size - Page 2 - GM Forum - Buick, Cadillac, Chev, Olds, GMC & Pontiac chat


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Old 04-18-2006, 04:22 PM   #11
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Quote:
Originally Posted by BillBoost37
Quote:
Originally Posted by dbtk2
We all know he'll get KR with a 3.4 so why recommend it?
Shawn.. I have been running a 3.4 with gutted airbox and not had KR issues. Recently I added ported exhaust manifolds and lost almost all of the KR at shift points. Rogue mentioned this KR is caused by boost dumping for the shift and is normal. The manifolds did help with the 1-2 degrees of KR at WOT that I did have.

The only unknown is that I bought the 3.4 at the end of October and have not scanned it above 80 F degrees.
And you also have a '97, not an '00+. Plus every car is different. And, you still do have KR. Just because its "only 1-2 degrees" doesn't mean its okay. That means there is still predetonation occuring and thats not a good thing. He really needs to scan before dropping pulleys at all. You can't just assume someone can drop pulleys just because you could, it doesn't work like that.

And also you have abnormally low KR compared to just about every other L67 car I've ever seen.
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Old 04-18-2006, 04:28 PM   #12
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I get 3-4* at WOT with my 3.4 altho I do have 3* increased timing on my PCM so that is prolly most of it
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Old 05-16-2006, 01:08 PM   #13
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so wait if i buy the 3.5 pully for my car would it be ok would it be ok to run with an intake only, or would i have to drop the plugs....or does all that depend on the kr? n also if i buy a 180 degree them i can leave it in all year right? i live in buffalo, becasue i was also thinkin bout having my pcm upgraded by intense and i just wanted to make sure it would be ok to leave on 180 degree through winter also.
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Old 05-16-2006, 01:56 PM   #14
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the 180 will be fine during the winter. I had concerns myself and ran this last winter with a 180.

3.5 is probably the best pulley for your situation.
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Old 05-16-2006, 02:10 PM   #15
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ok so then for now if i tested the car and it had little to no kr could i just buy the 180 and the 3.5 pully and be ok....with the intake?
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Old 05-16-2006, 02:35 PM   #16
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I'm assuming you gutted the front and back of the airbox....opened up the front to the full rectange instead of the oval hole they give you and dropped in a K&N?

That should be good. I ran that setup most of the winter. Recently I added more stuff..but that'* off topic.
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Old 05-16-2006, 02:42 PM   #17
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alrighty well that sounds good then...so ill look into buying the 3.5 pully and the gator back belt and then should i just rent the puller? im not sure were else i could get one from...
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Old 05-16-2006, 02:45 PM   #18
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Buffalo is how far from Binghamton? I'll be up there in a couple of weeks and could bring my puller.
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Old 05-16-2006, 03:15 PM   #19
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umm ya i just looked and its over 200 miles away so in all reality id probaly spend more in gas....but thanks anyway ill just rent one i think it seid 35 dollars for 10 days
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Old 05-16-2006, 03:22 PM   #20
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Hey Boostie, don't you have a Hulkspeed front PEM installed?
That'* why you are seeing such low KR with still using the stock airbox (even gutted).
My old 1999 SSEi with the 3.4", drilled 180* t-stat, NGK TR 55'* (0.58"), Magnaflow muffler, Taylor Spiro Pro 8MM wires and gutted stock air box was seeing 3-5* KR. With the 3" HF cat and resonator and CAI the new owner installed it now see'* .5*-2* KR. I am going to be setting him up with PEMs shortly and that should cure all his KR issues.

In this situation, a lightly modded car (3.4 or 3.5 pulley, CAI, PCM, and little or no exhaust mods) will definitely benefit from PEM'*. While Headers will be superior powerwise, PEMs are the feasible way to eliminate small amounts of KR (given the fuel system is in top shape), gaining lost power, and developing a smoother revving engine that also will benefit in the MPG'* department.
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