yet another problem with my car this time electrical
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From: Oberlin, Ohio
yet another problem with my car this time electrical
ok after i got out of work this morning i go to my car starts up nice and pretty lol but then i go to speedway and shut it off and get gas, then i get in my car to go home but my car is dead. when the door was open it would bing a liittle with key in igniton and have intieror light flash. my buddle gave me a jump got it home with a whinong noise coming from the back of my car that speeds up when i accelerat, almost sounds like it was coming from a speaker. but when i got it home i shut it off car was even more dead then it was before
batter?
sorry for spelling or if it hard to read im just beat
batter?
sorry for spelling or if it hard to read im just beat
Junior Member
Joined: Sep 2010
Posts: 1
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From: God's Country Lubbock TX
you can check the alt by starting your car and while it is running disconnect the NEG cable if your car dies chances are very good your alt is not working, proably need to replace brushes
Kevin
Kevin
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Obtain access to an inexpensive digital voltmeter. Every home garage toolbox should have a least a $15 Radio Shack digital volt/ohm/ammeter and a $3 car battery test light.
Measure voltage at the car battery expecting 12.6 volts with engine and lights off, key out. Much less than +12.6v, the battery is likely bad and won't take a complete charge or isn't getting a proper charge. Then start the car and expect +14.4 volts at high idle. Much more and the regulator is bad, much less and the regulator is bad. A well working regulator will stabilize the charging voltage to 14.2 to 14.6 but can drop to 13.6 at low idle of if battery is overcharged or the headlights are on with heavy current draw on the battery.
Alternators have 3 phases AC and when 1 phase goes out, it isn't enough to be sensed by the car'* computer but enough to give such early warning signs. The can definitively be measured with the meter at only 13.6v battery at high idle.
Your problem can be poor battery post connection as other allude to (cross fingers) but also can be early signs of alternator diode regulator problem...the whining is the alternator clue and your voltage diagnosis will confirm the rest.
Measure voltage at the car battery expecting 12.6 volts with engine and lights off, key out. Much less than +12.6v, the battery is likely bad and won't take a complete charge or isn't getting a proper charge. Then start the car and expect +14.4 volts at high idle. Much more and the regulator is bad, much less and the regulator is bad. A well working regulator will stabilize the charging voltage to 14.2 to 14.6 but can drop to 13.6 at low idle of if battery is overcharged or the headlights are on with heavy current draw on the battery.
Alternators have 3 phases AC and when 1 phase goes out, it isn't enough to be sensed by the car'* computer but enough to give such early warning signs. The can definitively be measured with the meter at only 13.6v battery at high idle.
Your problem can be poor battery post connection as other allude to (cross fingers) but also can be early signs of alternator diode regulator problem...the whining is the alternator clue and your voltage diagnosis will confirm the rest.
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Aug 6, 2010 03:53 PM
