Weird problem (Driver tailight/front park light)
Well, I ran into a problem on the 2K ssei today..
I noticed when I was changing my pulley to the 3.3 that my driver parking lights weren't on. Basically, all of the lights in the drivers taillight were out and the driver park/signal light was out. Everything else worked - Brakes, reverse lights, signal lights. This was while the car was running.
I pulled the fuse for the LH running/park lights, and it was blown. I think its #13. I replaced it, went for a drive and it burned out again. I opened the fuse box and the #39 fuse was very hot I noticed.
Basically, I keep blowing my left side running lights/park lights fuse (#13) and the block fuse #39 was getting hot. I'm not sure if that'* related. I just threw a new fuse (10a) in until I figure out what'* wrong.
Is it possible for the block fuse #39 to malfunction, or any relay for that matter and blow the fuse for the driving/park lights?
Being an electrician helps sometimes, but other times my brain hurts
I noticed when I was changing my pulley to the 3.3 that my driver parking lights weren't on. Basically, all of the lights in the drivers taillight were out and the driver park/signal light was out. Everything else worked - Brakes, reverse lights, signal lights. This was while the car was running.
I pulled the fuse for the LH running/park lights, and it was blown. I think its #13. I replaced it, went for a drive and it burned out again. I opened the fuse box and the #39 fuse was very hot I noticed.
Basically, I keep blowing my left side running lights/park lights fuse (#13) and the block fuse #39 was getting hot. I'm not sure if that'* related. I just threw a new fuse (10a) in until I figure out what'* wrong.
Is it possible for the block fuse #39 to malfunction, or any relay for that matter and blow the fuse for the driving/park lights?
Being an electrician helps sometimes, but other times my brain hurts
Ok..first off. If that 10a fuse is larger than the original get it out asap. Never overfuse to fix a short.
You seem to have a short. Trace the wires for that side where they go through sheet metal. Most likely they are raw and touching metal.
You seem to have a short. Trace the wires for that side where they go through sheet metal. Most likely they are raw and touching metal.
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From: Groton, CT _NEBF 05, 06, 07_

Originally Posted by Arcinium
Basically, I keep blowing my left side running lights/park lights fuse (#13) and the block fuse #39 was getting hot. I'm not sure if that'* related. I just threw a new fuse (10a) in until I figure out what'* wrong.
Is it possible for the block fuse #39 to malfunction, or any relay for that matter and blow the fuse for the driving/park lights?
Is it possible for the block fuse #39 to malfunction, or any relay for that matter and blow the fuse for the driving/park lights?
It was a wire grounding out in the front fender next to my W-body intake. It was a bitch to find, but after much brainstorming I figured that a wire was grounding somewhere. 6 fuses later I figured it out.
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True Car Nut
Joined: Oct 2002
Posts: 2,703
Likes: 0
From: Groton, CT _NEBF 05, 06, 07_

Originally Posted by Arcinium
It was a wire grounding out in the front fender next to my W-body intake. It was a B**** to find, but after much brainstorming I figured that a wire was grounding somewhere. 6 fuses later I figured it out.
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driverjohn2005
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