I'd like to setup a switch (or a button if it'* not really possible to switch) to start the car. Now i don't just want a switch I could hit any time, **** off the VATS system, and suddenly have to wait 3 minutes for it to clear.

Now would the best way to do this be a 2 switch system? If i have a switch that is inline for the "run" power, i could make it so that run doesn't work unless the switch is on, and then use a button or switch to start?

I would think that you would need to figure out your vats resistance. While is running go and find the vats wires. you have to cut one of them (not sure of color though some one will chime in) and measure the resistance both ways on the wire. The highest value is your resistance. then go to radio shack and make a resistor. Connect the resistor to the vats wire that you just cut. that will take of your vats

the other stuff i dunno

Oh i'm not bypassing the vats! If i leave it like that, then i still need the key to start it, and the Vats will keep it from being stolen.

oh ok

For 1993 and similar, it'* an orange "wire" that'* actually a plastic sleeve over two very-thin white wires.

Um, are you sure that strategy works? Seems a little too easy to determine; e.g. from an anti-theft standpoint, that'* a pretty big security hole. Also, the resistance (correct or otherwise) in the circuit is provided by the key, not the VATS circuit itself. It'* the pellet in the key itself that is the identifying resistor, one of 15 possible values. Ace Hardware and probably many locksmiths have a "VATS Interrogator" that lets them test your key to find out which VATS value it has, when making duplicates.

From your description of what you want, it sounds like you want to install a remote starter, then keep its transmitter (with the Start button that you want to press) in the car.

[quote="acg_ssei"]this worked on PASSKEY II for a 2000 blazer to install a remote starter. I thought that it would work for all types of VATS and PASSKEY I, AND II

But if i'm still inserting the key, i just need to bridge the "start" position wires right? I'll turn the key to run and hit the button. What wires to I need to bridge with the switch. I want it to still work with the key as well....

I _think_ (and again, I haven't tried this setup myself so I can't say for sure) that if you've got the key actually in the ignition and turned to the Run position, then all you'd need to do is have the Big Red Button you're installing jumper the red hot lead (in the wiring harness leading to the ignition switch) to the light-yellow starter crank wire (same harness), and the car should crank.