One other thing Ted, after I connect the resistor pack I took a reading on it , and I thought since the resistor is 4.75 ohms that is what it should read but it reads -5.96???

It'll give you different reading when connected. Try holding the wires to the contacts on the original key. Use the other key & try to start the car. After it starts you can remove the key from the wires & the car should keep running.

I'll give it a try........ be back in about 10min. with the result

Same thing held the key contact to the wires going into the dash, turn the key and the security light came on! I am getting so frustrated, I just got this car and the only thing wrong with it is this!

Does anyone know of any other wires or fuses that I could troubleshoot to maybe fix this annoying problem. Thanks!

Connect the meter leads to the wires going up the column. Insert the key & see if the meter shows a constant reading of 4.75 as the key is turned to the start position & back to off. If so reconnect the cut wires & then check for 12 volts at the small wire going to the starter solenoid. Key has to be in start position when checking this.

Still Nothing! I wanted to ask.......... if I built the circuit as shown here ( http://fp.enter.net/~rockcrawl/passkey.html ) to bypass the Vats Module. My question is, after I build the circuit where does it go and what do I connect it to???????

Hello everyone! Well I got it towed to an auto electrical mechanic and long story short he said after diagnosing everything that the Vats Module is bad. He said the only way to get to the module is to take out the entire instument panel and that the cost to do that and replace the module would be $750.00. Does that sound right or am I gonna get ripped off? I only paid $700 for the car and besides the Vats problem it runs pretty good. Thanks for the replies!