I believe I have found my problem to the trunker popper and the high beams their was after alarm installed on my car. But the brain box is missing. The wiring for looks someone who didn't know what they were doing installed. Push why up ibehind dashboard. As for the the high beams it looks like it feeds power off the high beam and the switch is was taped into the on postion(or least their was tape over it. Now where do I go from here? ( I amthinking remove the alarm wiring) Yes their seem to have keyless entry all the lock made noise when putting the car into diagnostic mode. I am thinking wiring diagrams

Hey, _that_ hardly ever happens.

I wouldn't disturb anything just yet; wait until you've figured out what you actually need to do. You said the brain box was removed; I assume you mean that you found a big long connector with 10-20 wires on it that wasn't plugged into anything. If so, leave it alone, since those wires are dead-ending at the plug, and they won't do any harm just hanging in mid-air.

As for the high-beam wiring, my guess is that they spliced the alarm'* light flashing circuit into the high-beam wiring instead of the parking-light circuit. Idiots. See if you can tell whether they actually _cut_ the high-beam wires (i.e. so that the alarm box was in full control of the high beams, and nothing else could power them anymore), or if they just tapped into the high-beam wires so they could inject their own current, but without disturbing the factory setup. I don't think their setup would be feeding power off the high-beam circuit; I think it was intended to put power _in_ there whenever the brain box wanted to.

Kewl! Get yourself one or two of the correct key-ring transmitters from eBay or someplace and you'll be in business. You might get a reliably popping trunk that way, too; the Keyless Entry module has its own controller for the trunk circuit, in parallel to your door pushbutton but coming from a separate power supply. (i.e. the Keyless Entry can pop the trunk when the car'* off; the door pushbutton cannot.)

Those are in Volume 2 of the factory manuals. They're broken out by circuit function (e.g. the trunk-popping circuit, the power window circuits, etc.). The days of finding one big foldout sheet with 400 colored lines on it are over...

-- Andy

I took look at the wire the is one wire that spilt from high beams it was top wire it looks at least when a gave it tug that was the wire that moved. Hay it looks from the wiring that car had remote start. That would be kind of nice in the winter. I am not really that concered about nesscair removing wiring. As long I can make sure it won't burn anything out or cause a fire. I think
Do you think my remote from 99 intruige would wok I forgot to give it when I sold it(i miss the that car)

I like it, although mine'* temporarily without it again after the box went slightly bonkers and kept the Lock solenoid energized until the battery went dead. BulldogSecurity is inexpensive but I've had two units go bad on me after 2-3 years, so shop around.

I doubt it, but it'* quick enough to check: Jumper the bottom left port of the ALDL to the upper right, like you did before. After the car acknowledges you by going *clunk*-*clunk* with its door locks, press any button on your Intrigue remote precisely once. If your car goes *clunk*-*clunk* at you again, congratulations; you've just programmed it.

If the car ignores you (make sure your remote has a working battery in it, of course), you'll need a different remote that matches it. They should be cheap to find on eBay...

Oh, look, here'* one now:
http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eB...tem=8005608310

You have 9 hours to go on this one...

-- Andy

Cool thanks for all help