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Old 08-16-2007, 01:18 PM   #1
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Default Problem with remote keyless entry (98 LeSabre)

My keyless entry fobs started acting squirrelly the other day...intermittently working/not working. Probably not a fob or battery problem, since both fobs starting acting funny at the same time.

Anyway, I decided to try to reprogram them. I searched, checked out some threads, and saw this procedure from Techinfo:

Quote:
Keyless entry reprogramming for OBDII

Transmitter Programming for
ODB II Vehicles

Important!
Before entering the programming mode, verify possession of all the transmitters you will be using on the vehicle. Once you program the transmitter, the memory erases. The other transmitters will not be functional until you program the transmitters again. You may program up to 4 transmitters.

Perform the following procedure when adding new transmitters or replacing failed transmitters:

1. Turn the ignition switch OFF.
Use a fused jumper wire in order to jumper the DLC terminal 8 (BLK/WHT) to terminal 4 (BLK).

2. Close all of the doors.

3. Turn the ignition switch ON. The doors will cycle to lock.

4. Press and hold the LOCK button and the UNLOCK button on one transmitter. After a 30 second delay the doors will lock and unlock.

Important
Do not turn the ignition OFF or the first transmitter will become inoperative.

5. In order to program extra transmitters, repeat step 4.

6. Disconnect the fused jumper wire from the DLC.
OK, I tried this procedure (more or less...there'* alot of ambiguity above), and it didn't fix me up. SO here'* some stupid procedural questions:

-In step 1; is it necessary to use a fused jumper, or will a bent paperclip be OK?

-Steps 1-2; do you have to jumper first, THEN close the doors? (I closed the doors, THEN jumpered...with a paperclip)

-Step 3; what does it mean if the doors unlock, but do not then lock...is there some waiting period here?

-Step 4; do I hold the buttons down for 30 seconds, or do I quickly press-and-release the buttons, THEN wait 30 seconds?

-Step 6; I read this that the key should be left in the run position while the jumper is removed...is that right? Does it matter?
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Old 08-16-2007, 03:12 PM   #2
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Paperclip is fine
Uh.. sure..whenever
step 3 ..that'* a cycle.
hold the button until you get a response from teh car. It'* FOREVER
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Old 08-16-2007, 03:43 PM   #3
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Quote:
Originally Posted by BillBoost37
Paperclip is fine
Uh.. sure..whenever
step 3 ..that'* a cycle.
hold the button until you get a response from teh car. It'* FOREVER
Bill,

So you're saying that (in step 3) the doors ending up at unlocked is right?
(Because the process says "The doors will cycle to lock," which I interpreted as "will end up in locked position")

You say "hold the button"...which button? Both lock and unlock? Just one? Which one? I'm again confused.

What kind of "response" should I expect from the car (a lock/unlock cycle, I would guess...)?
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Old 08-16-2007, 11:21 PM   #4
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Well, I don't know what I did differently from before, but I finally got my fobs programmed.
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Old 08-17-2007, 09:04 AM   #5
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Quote:
Originally Posted by agrazela
Well, I don't know what I did differently from before, but I finally got my fobs programmed.
It'* all in trying again.

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Old 08-17-2007, 07:18 PM   #6
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OK, so it'* not gonna be so simple (or cheap)...

The fobs keep acting up intermittently, and the RKE wiring harness passes the FSM tests, so I'm guessing I need a new RKE RFA module:

http://www.bonnevilleclub.com/forum/...ic.php?t=83801
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Old 08-17-2007, 08:58 PM   #7
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P.*., the FSM says a "new" RKE receiver module needs to programmed at a dealer with a Tech 2 after installation...is the same true of a used module?

(I guess what I'm hoping is that a new module comes "blank", and only has to be initially programmed with the Tech 2 once...)
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