Cold in Michigan? I've seen an ice dam INSIDE the maxifuse relay center. It thaws and leaves moisture in there.

Corrosion on a ground connection wouldn't cause more draw, it would cause less. I'd be looking for a short to a live (hot) wire somewhere or a supply problem.

sort of related to this... when I start my car, a few seconds later, I hear a whirring sound like a motor (sounds like the seat motor does) and the lights dim and the rpms slow and such, then returns to normal in about one or two seconds. it seems pretty normal but i am curious as to what is drawing the power.

Probably your TCS/ABS selfcheck/pressure step. If it only happens once after startup, that'* likely it.

yes it only happens once. thanks for the info.

BillBoost37

Are there any more ground busses other than that one? Ones I can check for corroded connections........ I want to check them all but dont have any manuals on this vehicle.



Willwren

I have checked the maxifuse center and its clean and dry, as well as no corrosion that I can see...... Is there something else in there that I need to check for this particular problem, maybe a relay or some other connection for an intermittent problem?

Thanks guys for your time

Not sure...Randman1 would know better...I'll pm him the link

Try to duplicate the problem with no accessories or lights running. No radio, no climate control, no lights, that kind of thing.

Also try to pull codes (get a scan) and look for any history codes.

Two possibilities here:
1. You actually have an electrical supply issue.
2. What you see is the SYMPTOM of the motor bogging down.

When my mechanic looked at it yesterday he didnt see any codes in the computer.

Why would this problem not be there when I purchased the vehicle a few years ago???

I still think it could be linked to either the PCM or ECM, or a ground connection.

My 92 Bonneville had to have the computer replaced when I had an electrical issue because it was telling the tester that it was receiving 29VDC instead of 12VDC. $200.00 later everything was just fine.

The ground busses that some have had problems with are located along both the left and right sills taped to the wire loom. There'* also a chassis ground in the right kick panel area. From the descriptions, I would not suspect corroded ground busses but it doesn't take long to check anyway. Here'* a pic of one in my 90. Yours will be in the same general area and on both sides:



I would approach this as if it were a parasitic drain. If you start the car and let it idle, it sounds like the headlights will be dim and the volt gauge will show lower than expected. At this point, start pulling fuses for non engine related circuits one at a time. If the lights become bright and/or the volt gauge seems normal start digging into that circuit deeper. Use this testing after you have ruled out the batt and alternator.

Are you sure? This may also be a stretch, but I would replace the accessory belt. The old one over time is probably stretched out, more than what the tensioner can compensate for. Just my $.02, it'* a starting point.