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Old 02-01-2008, 10:54 PM
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Originally Posted by EWC88
The only work I have done to my car was a instalation of my system. ( subwoofer, 2 amps, speaerks and capacitor ). That was done I'll have to say in Sept.

For the bulbs, I have to check to see if the other 3 are good? I didn't check the highs so I'll have to do that, but why would I have to check the other lowbeam bulb if it works? Also when I checked the bulb that was in the headlight that went out ( low beam ) it looks perfect, even double checked asking autozone and they agree that it wasn't blown, so I'm a little puzzled with that...

Also my blinker arm feels normal to me, I haven't notice anything different
I wasn't asking you to check the bulb that works. I have tried to follow your posts, but have been a little confused at times as your information hasn't always been clear or specific. Therefore, I've asked you to perform very specific tasks to elicit responses best able to confirm specific details.

In all we're talking about four headlamps, only one (if I understand correctly) works. What I'm reading is that neither of your high beams work nor does one of the low beams (although I'd like to know which one). There is little point in chasing down a wiring or fuse issue only to find the bulb is faulty and simply wasn't caught by thorough process. Until your last post, there had been no mention of having gone to Autozone seeking another opinion. As someone who has been troubleshooting electronics for many years, I would still check as I have no assurance this other individual followed any reasonable process. Did */he look at it, measure it with a meter or perhaps swap it to the known good side of the vehicle? In my opinion, looking is insufficient. I don't want to sound offensive, but I believe things work when I have my own evidence of such. It'* difficult enough to troubleshoot over a long distance and therefore I'm not prepared to make any assumptions.

Is there any difference in operation of your headlights when you turn them on manually versus having the DRL circuit activate them during the day? Where did you connect your stereo into the vehicle (particularly power connections)? You should inspect all the wiring in the vicinity (especially splices into factory wiring if applicable) to ensure nothing was disturbed and finally rubbed through insulation causing a fault. Lamp wiring runs throughout much of the vehicle.
Old 02-02-2008, 02:01 AM
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Sorry ddalder, hopefully this clears it up..

My headlights ( normal low beam light that is always on ) The DRIVER side is out.. My passenger side though works..

My HIGH beams don't work, both drvier and passenger side..

The blinkers don't work either..They are light up night like usual, but they don't flash on and off to use a normal blinker.


Do you get it know? I hope

Autozone didn't measure the blub but they did look at it..
The bulb to me lookes perfect, nothing borke on the inside and doesn't give you that sound like something is in it when you shake it..

I didn't install my system, But I know they wired it right to the battery..
Old 02-02-2008, 05:21 PM
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Anything yet? Sorry to bother ya..

Hope I can figure this out though cause I don't know how many more warngins I'll be luck to get
Old 02-02-2008, 06:17 PM
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I'm going to post some things for you to check. I'm at work until tomorrow morning so I'll do this as quickly as I can. Unfortunately I can't be more definite on the timeline.
Old 02-02-2008, 06:24 PM
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Originally Posted by EWC88
Anything yet? Sorry to bother ya..

Hope I can figure this out though cause I don't know how many more warngins I'll be luck to get
Well, Just following along here...

First, if I understand this correctly, the Turn Signal/Hazzard fuse blew shortly after you replaced it? Ok, that, in and of itself, means you have a wiring problem somewhere in there that you need to start tracing down. This isn't going to be fun, but, I'm guessing it'* in the area where the fellow doing your stereo was working. If all of the turn signal lights are down, then the problem must be in the wiring after the fuse block and BEFORE the turn signal switch in the steering column. You are looking for a short circuit, possibly where something got tapped into doing the stereo work. It could also be a pinched wire somewhere in the chassis, but I'm betting you will find it under the dash near the steering column.

Second, I'll assume for a moment that the driver'* side low beam is just burnt out and focus on the high beams. They are operated on a relay, which is likely fine, but the control for that relay also comed up to the steering column. (You pull the handle and hear the "click" of the switch changing from high beams to low beams... but the switch is actually on the bottom part of the steering column, above your feet.) I don't know where it gets power from, it might even draw from the same circuit that the turns signals are getting juice from.

So, what I would do is disconnect the harness connectors at the steering column and start tracing down the wires looking for the short. You are going to need the wiring diagrams for the car...which means getting a service manual for your car and tracing down the circuits involved.

My hunch is something got pinched when the stereo head unit was put in. It may have taken a while for the insulation around the wire to get rubbed off, but it'* clear you have a hard short that'* popping the fuse, and you gotta find it.

Some other tests to narrow the problem down and prove what works and by how much... Make sure the hazards and turn signal switches are off. Put a fuse in the block to replace the blown one. Without turning the car on or touching any switches, does this fuse blow too?

If it does, then the problem is definately in the wiring between the block and the steerng column switches. Now, remove the turn signal flasher relay. and repeat the test again. If the fuse blows again, the short is between the fuse block and the flasher relay and the wiring betwen the flasher relay and the column is OK. If it doesn't blow, then the problem is between the flasher relay and the steering column.

This is the "Divide and Conquer" approach to troubleshooting wiring. By breaking down the circuit from a known good point (The fuse block in this case) you can isolate where the shorted out wire is.
Old 02-03-2008, 09:53 AM
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And I just found out that my car lighters don't work...I went to plug in my cell phone charger in the one on the dash...didn't work, so I tried the one I the headlinear comparments...nope didn't work...so I tried the one in the back,, and yup that one worked...check the fuse in the engine bay, wasn't blown...

This is really getting to me now
Old 02-04-2008, 12:39 PM
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Tomarrow I will take apart the casing under my steering wheel column to see if any wires are pinched or exposed. As well as I'll take the back seat out to see if anything is up there.

I don't know how to take my headunit out since I didn't put that in either, do I just pull back on the back piece to pop it off to get to the headunit?
Old 02-05-2008, 03:57 PM
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ddalder, I took apart my car today (dash, backseat and took out the headlamp) and saw no loose ground wires, I did see though a wire that runs from my headunit to my 1 amp ( speakers ) that one of the million wires and it was a dark green had a little peice stripped..Could that be it?

Also I had a water issue with my front driver side carpet, could that casue something? I have to wait to take a look under there due to its raining right now..
Old 02-05-2008, 11:08 PM
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If it connects the HU to the amp, I suspect not. That is exactly the sort of thing you need to be looking for! Good job in spotting that. I would tape (or otherwise insulate it regardless).

At any time, have you tried to or successfully disabled the daytime running lights? I'll post a couple of additinal checks for you to make here shortly.
Old 02-06-2008, 02:12 AM
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Ok I'll keep looking for wires like that.. and also I will tape that up tomarrow..

and when you say disable the headlights what you mean by? taking the whole light casing out?


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