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Everything Electrical & Electronic Have an electrical problem? Lighting, Alternators, gauges, DIC, HUD, etc? Post it here. Please post Audio problems in the Audio forum, and Engine control problems in the appropriate Mechanical forum for your year.

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Old 01-31-2008, 01:43 PM   #11
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ddalder..when you say put one on ground, I couldn't find a ground wire.

Also when I tried to see if Rx10 with the fuse I wasn't getting a current or anything..

I am most likely doing this wrong..Can you explain in dumber terms? lol
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Old 01-31-2008, 04:06 PM   #12
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Quote:
Originally Posted by EWC88
ddalder..when you say put one on ground, I couldn't find a ground wire.

Also when I tried to see if Rx10 with the fuse I wasn't getting a current or anything..

I am most likely doing this wrong..Can you explain in dumber terms? lol
The negative (black) lead of your meter needs to be connected to a ground. You can use the negative terminal of the battery (when you check the fuse block under the rear seat) or you can touch it to the head of any clean screw/bolt which is fastened to the sheetmetal body of the car. You can also use the casing of the alternator where there is clean, bare metal.

Use the positive (red) lead of your meter to touch the bare spots on the top of each fuse I mentioned before.

Before you do, make sure your meter is set to DC Volts on a range of anywhere from 20 to 50 volts. Different meters have different ranges. You need to select one that is higher than the maximum voltage you are measuring (in this case anything greater than 16 volts) but low enough you can actually see some deflection of the needle. If you post a picture of your meter, I can tell you how to adjust it. Incorrect use MAY DAMAGE YOUR METER.
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Old 01-31-2008, 11:20 PM   #13
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Ok I understand now. Question though, do I check the fuse box in my engine bay or under my back seat for my blinkers, both high beams bulbs, and one main low bulb?

Also by any chance would you know what was is the blinkers? I have no car manual to be able to tell me and on the box it doesn't say blinker

Heres the meter I got, if you look on the right side its the 10A one
http://www.awsperry.com/catalog?item=sp-152
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Old 01-31-2008, 11:33 PM   #14
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With your meter, you will want to make sure you use the 50 volt range on the DC side.

Your headlight fuses are in the underhood fuse block and are labelled:

HDHIBML
HDHIBMR
HDLOBML
HDLOBMR

Your turn signal and hazard fuses are located in the rear fuse block. The ones of particular concern are:

T/SIGHAZ
IGN

You will want your key in the 'RUN' position, but don't start the car.

I was looking through your system schematics. Although I have a couple of theories, I'm going to wait until you have completed your tests. Also, you might want to pull the non-functioning headlamp bulbs out and see if they're okay. I'll elaborate more later.
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Old 01-31-2008, 11:54 PM   #15
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Ok so I'll have the car on the RUN postion and try them out..I'll try to do it asap, most likely I'll get to it on Saturday due to I have class tomarrow then right away I have work till 10..

Thanks for the info, I'll let you know what happens when I test them out, hopefully its just the fuses..
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Old 02-01-2008, 02:53 PM   #16
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Ok I was able to test them today, the tsighaz fuse was blown, so that has to be replaced, the IGN was ok..

Now the HDHIBML was fine aswell as the MR, so I'm going to get a new bulb to see if that works, Now I'm most likely for some reason not doing this meter right ( and I think it isn't the reatest cause its been messing up ) so I'm going to go buy the HDLOBMR fuses to check, I'm going to first see if its the bulbs...

I'll let you know what happens when I replace it, if it works or not
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Old 02-01-2008, 03:23 PM   #17
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Unless they have been used already, you should have some spare fuses in each of the two fuse blocks. They will be various amperages and are in a holder where you might otherwise find one of the really large fuses (MaxiFuse).
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Old 02-01-2008, 03:37 PM   #18
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Bulb is fine wasn't blown...I put in that fuse for the blinkers, worked but then blew the fuse instantly..

All the other fuses were fine..Those big block ones I didn't have to touch since they weren't for my lights just the little clear ones were..

So ddalder tell me the bad news, what can it be?
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Old 02-01-2008, 06:17 PM   #19
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Quote:
Originally Posted by EWC88
Bulb is fine wasn't blown...I put in that fuse for the blinkers, worked but then blew the fuse instantly..

All the other fuses were fine..Those big block ones I didn't have to touch since they weren't for my lights just the little clear ones were..
You have failures in two different circuits which are essentially not related to each other. The blown fuse in the signal light circuit is indicative of a heavy load or short somewhere. I have little reason to believe this is a bad ground because typically these result in a non-functional circuit, not a blown fuse. What custom work have you had done to the vehicle, who did it and how long ago?

Did you verify that each of your three non-functional headlamp bulbs are good? Your post suggests that you only checked one. If you have a bad low beam which is corrected by replacement, this can be removed from the equation. Otherwise because of how the DRL'* are set-up there may be yet another problem lurking about.

One part, although electrically not interconnecting the two systems is the turn signal/headlight switch in the steering column. Have you noticed anything unusual with how this "feels"? Does is seem loose or have more play than before? Have you noticed any faint smell of something hot or burning in the car lately?

There are more diagnostics to do, but first you'll need to become more familiar with the operation of your multimeter. If you have a manual, browse through measuring voltage. You mentioned in a previous post about making some measurements while in one of the 'R' ranges. If you were measuring voltage, this may have either damaged the meter or blown an internal fuse. Test your meter by setting it to the 50 volt range in DC. The dial should be set to about the 8 o'clock position. Measure across the battery and make sure the needle moves approximately 1/3 of the way towards the right.

In the interim, I'm going to have another look at the schematics to check for common electrical points between the circuits.
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Old 02-01-2008, 11:18 PM   #20
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The only work I have done to my car was a instalation of my system. ( subwoofer, 2 amps, speaerks and capacitor ). That was done I'll have to say in Sept.

For the bulbs, I have to check to see if the other 3 are good? I didn't check the highs so I'll have to do that, but why would I have to check the other lowbeam bulb if it works? Also when I checked the bulb that was in the headlight that went out ( low beam ) it looks perfect, even double checked asking autozone and they agree that it wasn't blown, so I'm a little puzzled with that...

Also my blinker arm feels normal to me, I haven't notice anything different
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