car starting problems getting frustrating. car acts like it loses power to all of car sometimes. can move key and make car quit. trying to figure if short in electrical part of switch or vats. keys ohm out at .523 which is #2 reading on chart. check at terminal plug of two white wires read 3.2 ohms. wires not cut just probing at plug connection at box? is this a good reading or do wires have to be cut and then checked on cylinder side to compare readings for bad wire at ignition cylinder. security light stays on most of time but will come and go never flashing when trying to start. acts just like no power staying to car in run position. i guess the question is will vats kill power to ignition switch if reading bad or does it sound more like faulty switch losing contact. problem is starting to get irratating and dont really know what to try to fix. afraid to trust car anymore. new battery and all cables are clean and tight. sometimes think car is possessed!!!!!!

If you could, please put your year and trim level in your signature. This helps identify which system you have.

sorry about that. its a 1998 sle. done a little more checking on car to no avail. just seems like your turning key to off. puzzled?

If I recall correctly, the VATS is only designed to PREVENT the engine from starting if the incorrect key is used. If it malfunctions AFTER the engine is started, it should not shut the engine off due to safety reasons.

Not sure which years, but upto 95 I think, the VATS will prevent cranking of the engine. After 95, the VATS will ALLOW cranking, but not sure if it disables the injectors, or the fuel pump.

In the beginning of your post, you stated, "looses power". Are you referring to engine performance, or electrical power?

car loses power to all electrical as if turning key off. car quits, no guages working,no check engine,abs,seatbelt,etc. lights working. acts just like no battery power in run position of key. also has shift interlock cable hooked into side of switch. have tried moving gears to different positions with same exact problem in any position. if switch is bad how does cable unhook from electrical part of ignition switch?

It sounds like your ignition switch is going out. If your VATS sensor was out it wouldn't start at all.

Maybe you have a problem with Maxi Fuse Block. Check that connection is still good and tight

I got problems with my vats today , tomorrow i will do the resistor pack and will post the results!

Mike has is nearly 100% on his description of VAT'*

95 and Prior: VATS prevents the starter from cranking.
96-99 VATS allowed the fuel pump to prime, then allowed cranking. The motor starts and stalls immediately because the fuel injectors don't pulse after the prime.
00+ Passkey system is slightly different.

You have a loose key/ignition switch and potentially other issues. Without fixing one or some, it will be tough to know if you have fixed the rest.

Done, the guide of this forum its 100% accurate!!! Works fine for me! Thanks staff!!