I don't have HID'*. How complicated would it be to add a low beam relay?

Complicated? Not at all. You can either buy one or make one yourself, it'* super easy.

Rockstar04 drew us these diagrams to show you how to wire up the headlights for the quad beam. Nice and easy to follow. I'll also use them to explain the relay and how to wire it to your low beams.

Here'* how I did it:



Basically a relay is a switch, it detects an input voltage and then applies what I will call "assisted power" to the output terminal. You can pick up a relay from any auto parts store, they will all have the numbers listed in the above diagram and they will all work the same way, just make sure you pick one up that can handle the demand of the headlamps, the staff should be able to help you with that. Most like Bosch 30 Amp Relays.

Once you have your relay, here is what each terminal means and does:

Terminal 30 connects directly to your battery (with an inline fuse of course!)

Terminal 86 is your input switch. Find the wire that supplies power to your low beams (there'* only two, it'* the one that'* not black) and connect it. This will trigger the relay.

Terminal 85 is a ground. Ground it anywhere there is good metal to metal contact, you can use one of your underhood factory grounds if you like.

Terminal 87 is what then supplies power to your low beams. Remember that power wire you cut earlier to provide a signal to the relay? Connect the end that you didn't connect (towards the bulb) to this. Also run a wire from this terminal to the other headlamp power wire so that it gets clean power too. Seal off the old power wire on the other side (the one that lead away from the bulb) and tuck it away somewhere.

Here'* an article that may help too:

http://www.danielsternlighting.com/t...ys/relays.html

Also, here'* another diagram to consider if you have a relay for your high beams:



I'm going to try this myself possibly tomorrow. Right now my high beams are pretty pathetic, but that'* to be expected when comparing D2S to H1 halogen. Not sure what this is going to do do my DRLs and such but we'll see!

If all works out properly I will be projecting almost 10,000 lumens of light downroad at once...that should hopefully be enough to see anything coming my way!
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Update, don't use the diode I posted earlier!

This is still viable, just needs a bigger diode. Radioshack guy said this might happen, and suggested a backup for me. It works just the same. We'll see how it does long term. I'll post results and details of what happened in a bit.
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Did it just burn the other diode out?

Yeah, it just burned out. No harm done.

Still working on it, wiring up a relay for the highs now. This is causing a few (minor) issues. Bout to seal off connections and I'll explain what'* going on...
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i sure do wish i had any idea what all those cool diagrams meant. electrical is my weakness.

Hey would the same thing apply for keeping the fogs on?

Would a replay that had Nc (normally Closed) and No (Normally Open) gates work better since you wouldn't need a resistor at all? This relay would be used for the high beams relay.



Power would go from 87a to the lows and 87 would go to the highs

Here'* some diode carnage:



It has a beefier diode in now, seems to be functioning just fine so far. Not sure what blew this one or when. It may have happened while I was playing with the relay.

Which brings me to the next item, I now have my high beams relayed and everything is wired in the same manner as the second diagram. Seems to be brighter, but I'll have to wait until night to be able to tell for sure.

Now, here'* the problems...

To get the most out of the relay, I stopped using the factory grounds for the high beam bulbs and connected it to the ground for the relay, all of which was constructed with 10 gauge wire. This will get the most available light out of them. However, the DRLs, perimeter lighting, and anything else that utilizes the high beams on a dim setting is no longer functional. This is because according to my FSMs, the dim high beam mode is activated by the lamp control module sending a current through to the GROUND wire of the driver'* side headlamp, which then runs through the power wire over to the passenger headlamp and grounds out on it'* ground wire. Interesting concept, but makes sense. With the lamps in series and a 12 volt current, the voltage to each lamp is cut in half and the lamps are dimmer.

Anyway, utilizing a high beam relay to it'* fullest extent will cause you to lose this feature. The other alternative is to use the factory grounds for the headlamps while connecting the power to the relay. I don't know how negatively this will affect performance, but it will trigger the low beam relay and the low beams will come on anytime the highs are on, whether they are dim or not. This may not be a concern for you, but it is for me as this is harmful to HIDs.

If you do choose to disable the dim high beam modes altogether, you can use the ground on the driver'* side as a power wire for something else if you like, so that something lights up when you hit the remote in the daytime, or as DRLs. Just remember that it is a full 12V current when the DRLs or perimeter lighting is triggered, so you will need to take that into account.

Or, if you don't feel like bothering with any of this mess, you can always just wire it up how it is in the first diagram. It'll work just fine.

Rockstar, the same concept could definitely be applied to the fogs as well, it would just require another diode and a relay for them. The only possible issue is that you would not be able to turn off your fogs if the highs were on, if that is a concern for you.

Interesting point that you bring up, I believe that any relay on the high beam side would eliminate the need for a diode, but for testing and optimal output purposes I am retaining the diode for the moment. With high and low beam relays (DRL ground disconnected) a jumper wire could be utilized directly from the output of the high beam relay over to the input switch for the low beams. Would keep them on with the highs but there wouldn't be any bleed back when the lows are on.
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I think this diode'* gonna last. Drove all over the place last night and today, flipping the highs on and off a lot. The relay definitely helped me see a lot more stuff, but the D2S is still waaaay overpowering any halogens I could throw on it, even boosted halogens.

These are the bigger diodes:

http://www.radioshack.com/product/in...ductId=2062575

Everything else still functioning 100%. Nothing seems to be unhappy with this setup.
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Wait...what? My lows already stay on when I turn my high beams on.

So someone modified my headlights at one time? (only thing I have done is put in low beam HID'*, but even before then the lows always stayed on with the highs)