You have me confused, I don't believe the electronic climate control uses a blower relay. Instead it should have a 'blower control module'.

When you found just 1 volt at the purple wire where did you have the negative meter lead connected?

Your description is consistent with symptoms expected with a worn motor. Have you ruled out the motor as the problem? If you have not yet done the test that Archon recommended, here is an alternate method that will tell you quickly whether the problem is the motor. Set the controls so that the blower should be working. Unplug the electrical connector at the blower. Install a 12V test lamp into the connector, not a voltmeter, not a neon tester. Use both leads from the lamp into both leads at the connector. That will test both power and ground. Use a heavier 12V lamp that will draw some current, a stop light bulb, for example. If the test lamp lights, the problem is the blower motor. If not, then you need to look down the line from the connector (relays, wiring, grounds, etc) to find the problem.

All things are leading to the control unit, now is there anything in the dash between the control unit and the relays in the engine compartment that could be causing the problem? I'm looking at a replacement digital control unit on ebay for 20 bucks.

the ECC (electronic climate control) is not easily swapable with the manual *****.

My current control is the ECC digital version and I am looking at the same to replace it with, no ***** involved.

What were the outcomes of the test(*) that Archon and Bill Buttermore have provided?

If your sure the blower motor is not bad, then the only other real component between the control unit and the relays are the HVAC Programmer (about $400 new). I assume in "AUTO" mode it takes inputs from the internal and external sensors and the control unit to determine fan speed, but I am not 100% sure.

I know it seems like we are a pain, but we don't want you throwing away your $ at the issue if we can nail it down for you. (although $20 is not too bad for a good ECC/digital control unit)

I went through and re-did everything the way they asked and everything was good blower motor wise, all tests were positive, I didn't have the ability to do the light test but when checking it it only read 1volt dc with the proper placement of the positive and ground electrodes with the mode set in any position.

If you are only getting 1 volt, across the wiring, obviously that won't be enough to drive the motor. Now, connect the negative terminal of the meter to a good ground on the engine, and the positive to the power wire for the motor. If you get 12 volts now, then you have a grounding issue. If it is still low, then there is a problem in the power source. We'll need someone with a wiring diagram for your year to check specific wiring. In the meantime, see if you can check the voltage output from the relay.

I am getting ahold of a 12volt light tester in the next few days, I'll keep u posted! Thanks for all your help guys!!

I have the '97 FSMs if we need the wiring diagram