Anyone have any idea what would cause the Fuel and Boost Guage to stick in one position. When I start the car the guages do there usual down, up and back to there proper position, then when I start driving they sometimes get stuck in one position. Could this be sensor problems ?

Also my Fuel gauge is lying, it says its Full when its not. Can this be fixed with the 2K Ohm Resistor or do I need a new float ?

Any help would be great,
Thanks in Advance,
Dutch

I'm assuming that this is for your 92 SSEi. I had to go digging to find some idea of what we're talking about. Please put year and trim level in your sig.

First, I have a couple of questions: Do the gauges flake out at the same time? Do they go through the sweep again when proper operation returns?

Putting a 2K resistor in series with the fuel sender wire will far exceed the resistance that the gauge is looking for. It has a range of 0 ohms (empty) to 90 ohms (full).

Not if it'* two independent gauges malfunctioning in synch, no. I think it'* more likely a physical contact problem in the gauge cluster.

If I remember right, these gauges are little stepping motors, and you can see each "click" of movement if you watch them closely enough (without driving into a tree), like when the engine starts to warm up and the temperature gauge needle starts to climb. It doesn't crawl; it goes in little increments instead.

The gauges are held to the circuit board by four pins on each gauge. The board they mount on is in turn connected to one or more other boards by ribbon cables, and two multi-pin harness connectors plug in the back. Any and all can oxidize and form intermittent connections, so you'll see effects like flickering fluorescent displays in the DIC or compass, that kind of thing. Your gauges may cut in and out for the same reason. They don't really _stick_; instead they lose the signal that tells the stepping motor where to go next with the needle, so it just stays wherever it was nudged to last time, until the signal comes back on-line.

Are there _any_ other problems in the gauge cluster at all? Any lights out, or displays that don't work?

Thanks for the response guys.
I think your right about a bad connection cause the compass and DIC are both cutting in and out as well. At first I thought it was two seperate problems, but after you inlightened me............now that I think about it, it is probably all related.
I guess it was inevitable............ the dash cluster will have to come out. I hate pulling apart dashes, I do it for a living (After-market electronic installer) .
The reason I thought it might need the resistor is because I read about it in the "Tech Info" part of the site http://www.bonnevilleclub.com/techinfo/?article=31
But I don't think thats the problem anymore.

Thanks again for your help,
Dutch

That'* interesting. I've never read that.

That indicates that the resistor is to be wired in parallel so my earlier mention of it exceeding the gauge'* range is incorrect.

It'* not too bad. Here are your instructions:

http://www.bonnevilleclub.com/techinfo/?article=56

Yes, that would affect only the fuel gauge, nothing else.

A suggestion. I followed article 56 and am still having problems with my gauges. I'm going to go back in and check for the cold/cracked solder joints (like 56 says to do if it'* not 2am)

I'm thinking of using some pcb cleaner and contact cleaner to really clean contacts. Maybe bend the tabs that touch the gauges for better contact. Mine seemed fine for a day or two then went back to flaky. These cars seem like they can be one giant contact issue. =0) Love it though....love it.

That about covers it.