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Detailing & Appearance Discuss washing, waxing and detailing information as well as interior/exterior cosmetic modifications. This includes neons, body, cosmetic wheels, etc. Even under the hood detailing.

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Old 12-28-2007, 11:49 AM   #51
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Front and rear bumper covers will soon get the same treatment. As will the door handle pockets on the passenger side of the Zilla. They're faded, the other side is not.
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Old 12-28-2007, 12:07 PM   #52
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Quote:
Originally Posted by willwren
I could write one for a 'garage job', but not as a pro like a couple people here. I'm not sure I'm the right candidate for this.

If not you, then someone should step up and do it. I'm sure many of us would like to kick the rattle can habit and find out how to do a better job on those small paint jobs that crop up now and then.

Even renting the equipment and buying proper paint is a lot less expensive than taking it to a shop. Lot more satisfying also.

Besides, I have an ulterior motive. A painting project for this coming spring


*edit* Just thinking this might be better in a separate thread.
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Old 12-28-2007, 12:50 PM   #53
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Quote:
Originally Posted by willwren
This clearcoat has a hardener in it. It'* a 2-part epoxy clear. It'* dry to the touch in 10 minutes. Waxing is fine.
I've still seen conflicting responses from many different sources on how long to wait. Some say to wait a week, and others still say to wait 30 days or more, especially if you are using a wax with solvents. I would rather be safe than sorry.
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Old 12-28-2007, 12:55 PM   #54
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My personal recomendation is to wait 30 days to let the solvent in the clear finnish evapourating from the clear.. waxing it can trap it in, and in bad cases cause it to turn Dull
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Old 12-28-2007, 12:56 PM   #55
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I followed the instructions from where I got my paint. He supplies all the major shops around here. Based on his advice, I used a soft paste wax. Leaving it unprotected this time of year isn't something I'm prepared to do. He said wait 2 hours before polishing, and a day or two to wax. I waited overnight to polish, and 2 more days to wax.

JMH, it directly relates. Not a bad thing to discuss here. A couple other members have done DIY at home jobs, even on an entire car.
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Old 12-28-2007, 01:03 PM   #56
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Well at least you didn't use Liquid Glass It has been said that using a glaze until cured is a safe alternative. It won't give as good a protection, but is better than leaving it bare to the elements.
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Old 12-28-2007, 01:11 PM   #57
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Quote:
Originally Posted by willwren
This clearcoat has a hardener in it. It'* a 2-part epoxy clear. It'* dry to the touch in 10 minutes. Waxing is fine.
i'd never wax prior to 30 days but that is just me.

from the looks of the hose going to the gun i assume that is not an hvlp setup? end result looks great but how were you not spraying in a cloud without ventilation or is something not pictured?
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Old 12-28-2007, 01:19 PM   #58
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I didn't use LG, I used a simple paste wax. LG will go on after the final buffing in the spring.

Yes, the gun is an HVLP. The ventilation was a 2" gap at the bottom of the garage door, and the resultant 1" gap at the top, and the side door was propped open about 6". I was wearing a respirator. I shot, then exited, and came back in 10 minutes each time.

Dust control was done the old-fashioned way. I sprayed the booth walls and floor down with water before each coat. Then waited 10 minutes for the dust to settle into and become trapped.
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Old 12-28-2007, 01:39 PM   #59
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Quote:
Originally Posted by willwren
I didn't use LG, I used a simple paste wax. LG will go on after the final buffing in the spring.

Yes, the gun is an HVLP. The ventilation was a 2" gap at the bottom of the garage door, and the resultant 1" gap at the top, and the side door was propped open about 6". I was wearing a respirator. I shot, then exited, and came back in 10 minutes each time.

Dust control was done the old-fashioned way. I sprayed the booth walls and floor down with water before each coat. Then waited 10 minutes for the dust to settle into and become trapped.
next time try this if you have a side door. position an exhaust fan in either the side door or the the partially opened garage door. on the intake side run [which i think the garage door would be better] more filters. on the exhaust side run filter pre/or post fan to catch the overspray. i actually coat that filter w/ some 3M spray adheasive between coats to ensure i am not blowing overspray outside. the trick to to find the # of filters and filter size and spec which works best. we are certainly gettng there with our setup. as soon as you close the gun the overspray is gone. of course i wear a respirator. i even do so when priming a panel outside.

if your garage door is open ~ 2 feet you can put filters up top and just tape off the bottom. with the exhaust fan in the bottom of the door it will work as close to a down draft booth as possible.

and durablock > any other sanding block produced imo.
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Old 12-28-2007, 01:56 PM   #60
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My goal was a temporary paint booth on a budget. I achieved that.

Total cost was under 15 bucks.
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