I've tried both, and the absorber works awesome on the paint, but sometimes it tends to leave a "film" on the windows/mirrors. So I use the waterblade for that.

If I'm in a hurry, I use the waterblade, however if I'm taking my time I used the absorber on the paint and the waterblade on the windows.

When you use the absorber, you are using it when it'* moist or completely dry?
(it should be moist)

I hated the absorber too. Mine found its way to the trash in a very short period of time.

A good chamois works damn well for me. As I will not drag a water blade across anyone'* paint.

The thing that never made sense to me is how you can easily use a waterblade on bumpy services, ie. the cladding (ESPECIALLY the grooved cladding on the 92-95), any other uneven surface, etc.

The absorber is basically a "cloth" so it forms to the car and you can dry the car quicker and more precise IMO. Just wring it out frequently and wipe the car until it'* dry. It really has worked great for me!

I agree with Seth. I use microfiber drying towels as well.

I've got both and would say that the absorber works better once it has been wet for about 20 minutes from opening the package.

When I do repaint..I'll be talking to Tom daily and neither will touch my paint.

all microfiber towels here as well.

100% agree with you, I swear by my absorber... just be sure to ring it out often.

Secrets to using the absorber:

1) It HAS to be wet to work. If it'* not thoroughly wet first, it won't pick up. To wet it, hose it off till it'* dripping wet, or dunk it in clean water in a bucket. Then wring out and begin drying.

2) The car needs a good wax job. If your water doesn't bead well, the water may remain. It'* all physics here. Water is attracted to water. Water will "stick" to surfaces, like automotive paint. The higher the water bead stands up on the paint, the better the absorber will work as the water will be attracted to the water in the absorber instead of the water on the paint. (Wow, I hope that makes some sort of sense)

3) Don't use the absorber like a regular towel. Take the absorber by 2 adjacent corners and lay it on the car flat. Then lift up on the 2 corners and drag it towards you over the surface. It will pick up the water. If it'* too saturated, wring it out and do it again.

4) Wring out the absorber frequently. Give it all the strength you have. It'll feel close to dry, but just a tad damp. That'* when it picks up the most water.

5) When rinsing the car, allow the water from the hose to flow out the open end. Do not spray with a nozzle. The water will flood over the car in a uniform sheet. The water will begin to roll off the car. Since water is attracted to water, the water will pull off the vehicle with gravity and leave very little water behind. If done with the right flow (a light flow) you can "dry" entire panels by the water alone rolling off the car. Anyplace where the water sticks may either have a problem with embedded dirt in the paint, or acratches in the paint. The few water spots that may be left behind will come up quickly with the absorber used as described above. To do this, I use a brass ball valve on the end of the hose (from the garden center) and a 3 foot length og cut hose attached to the valve (like a laundry tub hose). This makes it easy to control water flow and the cut hose means no metal ends near the cars paint.

With a decently waxed car, the right rinse technique and the absorber, I've completely dried a car in under 10 minutes. Once you learn how the water rolls off your car, you can dry a car really fast.

I hope this helps, or even makes sense.

Had one or two about the same time smellbird did, i didn't like the fact that once dirt was in them, it was pretty hard to wash out. Not a fan of constant wringing it takes either.

I have a nice big MF towel just for drying now. Nothing will soak up as much water per sq/ft.