you mean take timing cover off and check timing marks?

Absolutely. I'm thinking you are retarded a link.

I’ve been thinking the same thing. But I had somebody hook a snap on scanner to it and according to him it was in proper timing. If it was off a link wouldn’t this show in scanner? Also is there an easier way to see if I really need to take timing cover off. Maybe top dead Center and look in distributor cap? I’m asking because I don’t know.

I would check it.

That'd be a pretty thrashed 5.7 to skip a tooth with the timing chain and not have sheared just about all the teeth off.

That'd be a pretty thrashed 5.7 to skip a tooth with the distributor and not have sheared just about all the teeth off.

Something isn't adding up.

Does the check engine light illuminate when you turn the ignition on before you start it?

Is there a check engine light on while it is running?

Is it losing coolant? Even just a little?

What was wrong with the radiator?

How many miles and years on the radiator cap?

Maybe it is a leaky injector?

Might be a bad cable. Thoroughly inspect the big fat positive and negative battery cables for weak spots.

Clean all connections for the big fat cables. No rust, no paint, etc.

Thanks
. 1:The check engine light does come on when key on.
2: The check engine light is not on when running.
3: Not even a little bit of coolant lost.
4: Radiator had a crack in plastic. Noticed leak in driveway. Never overheated.
5: New cap with new radiator. About a year old. 5000 miles or less.
6: possibly leaking injector. But wouldn’t that also be problem with cranking but no power to ign ?
7: All cables have been inspected and thoroughly cleaned, sanded all paint and grease off frame.
8: doesn’t seem to be bad connections. ( low power ) seems more like binding and kick back. I have also inspected teeth on flywheel all look good. Normal wear but nothing serious.

Thanks for the answers!

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What I'm thinking here is that you drive around fine all day etc. then park for the night. Then over the next several hours an injector slowly bleeds fuel system pressure into its cylinder, then you go to start it up in the morning and it has a bunch of fuel pooled in a cylinder. When that cylinder attempts a compression stroke it has less compressible space for the air that'* remaining and, voila', there'* your kickback and/or struggle.

​​​​​​​so yes makes partial sense in my inexperienced head. What’* throwing doubt is the fact that it seems there would be lack of compressible space whether ign is powered or not. As I said no problem with cranking if key is off. Your thoughts please. Additionally how would I check that. Maybe remove plugs one at a time and try cranking. ?? Thanks so much for your time.

[QUOTE=Sandicaine;1650425As I said no problem with cranking if key is off. .[/QUOTE]
If key is off I would be very surprised that it would crank at all. You do not communicate your issue at all well.

I can't see how there could be a difference cranking with the key on or off. It isn't able to change mechanical timing. The big difference would be current draw by other accessories.

What is hooked to the electrical system besides stuff that the factory installed?