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Harder to start after injector and O2 replacement

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Old Sep 4, 2019 | 03:47 PM
  #31  
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Cleaned it. No change
Old Sep 4, 2019 | 04:32 PM
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Originally Posted by cam2363
Ok well I'll clean it out then. I held the brake today when starting and it did start a bit easier. But do you have any clue why it would just pop up after the injector replacement? I did clean out the tb last night, but not the pintle for the IAC
Originally Posted by cam2363
Cleaned it. No change
No idea how holding the brake would help.

I wonder if the IAC (and/or maybe the wiring going to it) has failed. When replacing injectors, wires get moved around and maybe one of them had enough.
Old Sep 4, 2019 | 04:34 PM
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Originally Posted by CathedralCub
No idea how holding the brake would help.

I wonder if the IAC (and/or maybe the wiring going to it) has failed. When replacing injectors, wires get moved around and maybe one of them had enough.
I had someone suggest to me that it was the Schrader valve o ring because I smelled gas over near it and it seems that it is leaking, but that still wouldnt explain the hard starting. I think there was also a vacuum leak with the brake booster line, but it is fixed i think.
Old Sep 4, 2019 | 06:31 PM
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Originally Posted by cam2363
I had someone suggest to me that it was the Schrader valve o ring because I smelled gas over near it and it seems that it is leaking, but that still wouldnt explain the hard starting.
It could. If it is letting fuel out, then it could be letting air in after fuel pressure drops near zero. Enough of this could allow a bunch of air to gather as fuel is allowed to siphon back to the tank.

Either way, you shouldn't start it at all with a known fuel leak.
Old Sep 4, 2019 | 07:26 PM
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Originally Posted by CathedralCub
It could. If it is letting fuel out, then it could be letting air in after fuel pressure drops near zero. Enough of this could allow a bunch of air to gather as fuel is allowed to siphon back to the tank.

Either way, you shouldn't start it at all with a known fuel leak.
I mean I dont see any leaks from it, just a smell. And it'* my only car really so I kind of need it
Old Sep 5, 2019 | 03:27 AM
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Since we are discussing the IAC cleaning, I want to add this information to this thread: https://www.gmforum.com/normal-maint...2/#post1597076

The fuel pressure regulator was mentioned back in post #2 and a simple test for fuel leaking from the FPR should be checked.
You can fast forward to the FPR at 1 minute and 49 seconds approximately.
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Old Sep 5, 2019 | 12:13 PM
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Originally Posted by cam2363
I mean I dont see any leaks from it, just a smell. And it'* my only car really so I kind of need it
I get that, but if it'* leaking enough to smell then there is some potential for fire. Perhaps it leaks more when under pressure and heat while driving and you're smelling the leftover vapors. Perhaps not. I can't tell how bad the leak is through my keyboard so I'll err on the side of prudence with my advice and let you decide.

If the fuel smell persists after a couple of drive cycles then you have a leak. It'* probably related.
Old Sep 5, 2019 | 01:08 PM
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Originally Posted by CathedralCub
I get that, but if it'* leaking enough to smell then there is some potential for fire. Perhaps it leaks more when under pressure and heat while driving and you're smelling the leftover vapors. Perhaps not. I can't tell how bad the leak is through my keyboard so I'll err on the side of prudence with my advice and let you decide.

If the fuel smell persists after a couple of drive cycles then you have a leak. It'* probably related.
Ok thanks. Do you know if there is a way to remove the valve and check
Old Sep 5, 2019 | 03:11 PM
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It would be better to find the leak first, then check what'* next to it.
Old Sep 6, 2019 | 08:33 AM
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Originally Posted by CathedralCub
It would be better to find the leak first, then check what'* next to it.
So I think the valve was the issue. replaced it and it seems to start well now



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