Crazy P0223 DTC code
Former Vendor
Posts like a V-Tak
Joined: May 2020
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ok, I still don't have the problem fixed but I do Have some more info. I borrowed a better scanner so I could see the graph of TPS2. The voltage is up close to 5 v with a "rythmic" spike down every second or 2. It does the same exact thing with 2 different ECM'*.
I have a good 5v. ref to TPS2. I cut (on both ends ) and replaced the TPS2 signal wire and ground. I have from .73 v to 1.45 v reading depending whether the engine is running or not on the ECM conn2 pins36 and 7.
To me this seems impossible but that is what I have and have no idea what to do next.
Any help would be greatly appreciated.
I have a good 5v. ref to TPS2. I cut (on both ends ) and replaced the TPS2 signal wire and ground. I have from .73 v to 1.45 v reading depending whether the engine is running or not on the ECM conn2 pins36 and 7.
To me this seems impossible but that is what I have and have no idea what to do next.
Any help would be greatly appreciated.
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Joined: Aug 2020
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Thank you for responding.
I always back probe at the ecm for TPS2 signal on pins 7 and 36
Yes , I thought I had found that by sticking a needle probe into the back of the ecm plug on the ground pin (36) that was the problem. It worked for 1 day and quit. I have never gotten a valid response from the ecm on TPS2 since. I have checked for continuity on the signal wire and ground from tip of plug at TPS to tip of plug at the ecm numerous times and it is good(0 ohms) I have taken some emery cloth and cleaned the pins on the ecm (although they looked fine). I checked the resistance across the sig. and ground on ecm to see if it measured open (1740 ohms, I can only assume that is within range).
One thing I have not mentioned is that on the other ecm (used and reflashed) is that sometimes I get a P2127 and P2128 (low voltage on the app sensors) along with the P0223 on it.
I am quite sure it doesn't matter but the ecm I am using the only other codes I get are P0017 and P0315?? (crank sensor not relearned and crank correlation error).
I agree that it has to be the wiring but at the same time it is not ,so I have ordered another ecm(used for $150.00).
BTW.... occasionally am getting a service 4 wheel drive MIL and sometimes a service stabilitrac MIL.
Again that you for the advice
I always back probe at the ecm for TPS2 signal on pins 7 and 36
Yes , I thought I had found that by sticking a needle probe into the back of the ecm plug on the ground pin (36) that was the problem. It worked for 1 day and quit. I have never gotten a valid response from the ecm on TPS2 since. I have checked for continuity on the signal wire and ground from tip of plug at TPS to tip of plug at the ecm numerous times and it is good(0 ohms) I have taken some emery cloth and cleaned the pins on the ecm (although they looked fine). I checked the resistance across the sig. and ground on ecm to see if it measured open (1740 ohms, I can only assume that is within range).
One thing I have not mentioned is that on the other ecm (used and reflashed) is that sometimes I get a P2127 and P2128 (low voltage on the app sensors) along with the P0223 on it.
I am quite sure it doesn't matter but the ecm I am using the only other codes I get are P0017 and P0315?? (crank sensor not relearned and crank correlation error).
I agree that it has to be the wiring but at the same time it is not ,so I have ordered another ecm(used for $150.00).
BTW.... occasionally am getting a service 4 wheel drive MIL and sometimes a service stabilitrac MIL.
Again that you for the advice
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Joined: Aug 2020
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PROBLEM SOLVED BUT NOT REPAIRED...YET
OK, Many of you are not going to believe this but here is what I found. I had connected and removed ecm conn 2 many times looking for the point that I was loosing connectivity.I even tried to punch a hole in a very small wire ,slide it down over pins 7 and 36 on that plug and route it around the plug and out to verify connectivity to the pins, but was unsucessful because of the tight fit. It finally occured to me to try to bend the pins slightly so the plug would go in but be pressing on the side. THAT DID IT. I remind you that I had cleaned the pins with emery cloth and the connector had been on and off many times testing for continuity and ONLY 1 time out of all that did connect and also on 2 other ecms. After bending the pin(about half the width of the pins) , it connects every time.
I would leave it at that except that ocassionally I would get random MILs now the only 1 MIL I get now is an oil can with a wrench and I dont know what that means but I am pretty sure it is another pin loose because it is random. I am not considering replacing the harness because of the difficulty and would likely introduce another problem in the process. I could cut all the wires and replace the plug but dont really want to do that. I am considering getting some electrical conducting paint and putting a coat or 2 on the pins to increase their thickness a little bit. If anyone has a better idea I WOULD LOVE TO HEAR IT.
I hope that what I have found will help some else because I am quite sure this is not the only instance of this problem.
OK, Many of you are not going to believe this but here is what I found. I had connected and removed ecm conn 2 many times looking for the point that I was loosing connectivity.I even tried to punch a hole in a very small wire ,slide it down over pins 7 and 36 on that plug and route it around the plug and out to verify connectivity to the pins, but was unsucessful because of the tight fit. It finally occured to me to try to bend the pins slightly so the plug would go in but be pressing on the side. THAT DID IT. I remind you that I had cleaned the pins with emery cloth and the connector had been on and off many times testing for continuity and ONLY 1 time out of all that did connect and also on 2 other ecms. After bending the pin(about half the width of the pins) , it connects every time.
I would leave it at that except that ocassionally I would get random MILs now the only 1 MIL I get now is an oil can with a wrench and I dont know what that means but I am pretty sure it is another pin loose because it is random. I am not considering replacing the harness because of the difficulty and would likely introduce another problem in the process. I could cut all the wires and replace the plug but dont really want to do that. I am considering getting some electrical conducting paint and putting a coat or 2 on the pins to increase their thickness a little bit. If anyone has a better idea I WOULD LOVE TO HEAR IT.
I hope that what I have found will help some else because I am quite sure this is not the only instance of this problem.
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True Car Nut
Joined: Feb 2015
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From: Earth
I've used Noalox on many radio and telecom applications, and a few times on older computers with interesting issues. I don't think it would create a problem if applied sparingly, and would do just what you want regarding contact issues.
Former Vendor
Posts like a V-Tak
Joined: May 2020
Posts: 63
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As I mentioned when you started this thread, you have a terminal tension issue. Meaning that the female terminal in the ECM connector is not gripping the pin in the ECM to make good contact. These connectors are a highly engineered item that have to be perfect for everything to connect like they should. Poking and prodding with needles and wires is just making things worse. And yes taking the connector on and off and working with it is likely making it worse as well.
The correct way to fix this issue is to replace the terminal (not the harness or the connector, just the terminal.) A dealer could sell you a bare terminal, but that would require a special tool to crimp on the wire. The easiest way would be to get a terminated lead from a donor car - the terminal with a length of wire that you can splice to the existing circuit.
To remove the terminals there is a terminal lock on the connector you have to remove. I'm not sure on that exact year, but a lot of times its just the colored clip on the face of the connector where the terminals are. Once you remove that you will see a very tiny tab that needs to be released. You will need a terminal release tool that matches (very very tiny pick - dont try to force something too big into it or you will need to replace the whole connector. With a gentle touch on that release tab the terminal will slide out with the wire.
The correct way to fix this issue is to replace the terminal (not the harness or the connector, just the terminal.) A dealer could sell you a bare terminal, but that would require a special tool to crimp on the wire. The easiest way would be to get a terminated lead from a donor car - the terminal with a length of wire that you can splice to the existing circuit.
To remove the terminals there is a terminal lock on the connector you have to remove. I'm not sure on that exact year, but a lot of times its just the colored clip on the face of the connector where the terminals are. Once you remove that you will see a very tiny tab that needs to be released. You will need a terminal release tool that matches (very very tiny pick - dont try to force something too big into it or you will need to replace the whole connector. With a gentle touch on that release tab the terminal will slide out with the wire.
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