Better pic of the tightened chain.

Well, one of the chain guides are broken. I can see where the top is broker so off comes the bottom cover. Will update as it goes along.

Do you have a manual there? (2004 Cavalier 2.2 Eco/tech DOHC)
If not hopefully we can come up with some all data diagrams and working how2 info etc.
There are a few color chain tabs that have to align perfectly, but I dont have a manual.
I did find this diagram online though.

I just hope the chain did not jump teeth. That is an interference motor.
I also hope no bolts went missing down the casing.

I agree, if you are going to mess with that timing chain, get a manual or go to a GM shop and get copies of the procedure....

The chain should be inspected for wear, as well as all three sprockets.....there was a TSB, if I remember correctly, about wear to chain and sprockets due to the oil orifice being to small.....if this is the case, the orifice, chain sprockets, and tensioner should all be replaced.....

As for the timing marks on the chain, they only line up correctly on INITIAL installation of the chain, and are used for installation purposes only......

Just want to say thanks for the info and help. This is a pic of the stationary timing chain guide, or what I could find of it. I also had to disassemble the tensioner and soak it overnight to get the gummed up oil out. I have never seen and engine so gummed up. Looks like the lack of oil changes gummed up the tensioner, causing it to fail. The loose chain slapped the guide and finally broke it.

I always buy a Haynes manual when I decide to tinker, but thanks for the diagram.

When I got it back together, it would not start but hit when the accelerator was to the floor. For a minute I thought all of that work was for not but after a minute, and a blast of oil out the tail pipe, it is running smooth with plenty of power. It was burning very rich but leaned out after about 5 minutes.

Glad the motor is running so now to figure out why the floor and defroster will not work. Only blowing through the face vents...but I will start another thread tomorrow.

I am glad it runs well again and hope it stays that way...
In a few of your photos I had noticed the severe build ups and looked a lot nasty!
I was afraid to say anything, cause sometimes if the valve train looks that bad & it aint broke don't try to clean it LOL
That being said knowing me,I dont think I could stand the top end looking like that.
I would pull the drain plug, break out the hot power washer, then use LPS degreaser, power wash again..and then a fresh oil flush with plug still out etc..
Then plug in & fresh oil run, & drain & repeat a few times !

Lol, I agree about being afraid to touch it. After all, I changed the oil and look what happened.

I may tear back into it and clean but I am concerned about rust forming on the cam lobes, crank, and other pieces if I spray it with water. Also, what about and water left in the oil pan? Is there any danger?

Thanks,
Randel

Ya maybe a dry run would be a good attempt.
A 1500 watt hair dryer would get things good & hot for 1 area at a time, and kerosene soaked rags would help attack the build ups.

Knowing what the top of the engine looks like and the thought of what the inside looks like I wouldn't flush it out. Id just change the oil again at 100 miles then again 500 miles later. I would not use any additives or water for the matter to flush it out. Good chance of seizing the motor, damage has already been done. Id drive it till it dies, then install a good used engine.

my yukon was pretty bad, i ran some seafoam in the oil and a couple quick oil changes and it stopped knocking and all that.