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I took the starter to Autozone. They tested it and said that the starter was perfect...So now I am lost. I will look closely (again) to see if there is any damage to the wires. Any other suggestions would be appreciated.
We need to find the cause of the blown fuses. Right now you have the starter out. Make sure the ends of the wires (that were connected to the starter) are safe, as in wrap any bare metal in electrical tape and keep them from touching anything. Reconnect the battery. Try to "start" it. Did the fuse blow? If so, there is a short somewhere.
Disclaimer: Some auto repair methods can be dangerous. Perform at your own risk. Professional driver on a closed course. Past success not indicative of future results. Void where prohibited. Yada yada.
Bigger picture: I can't reconcile how anything else went wrong at the same time as the battery got really really really old and died, except that maybe the alternator would give up as well, which is common as it would get overworked keeping a bad battery charged. That'll be the next thing to check once it is running again. In the meantime, make sure you are handling everything you are working on carefully and methodically, and especially not kinking cables.
Can you get us some pictures of the battery area including cables, and also the starter area including cables?
Last edited by CathedralCub; Jan 21, 2023 at 08:35 PM.
Will try further testing when my friend (helper) has time. However, I wanted to clarify that the fuse does not burn out when the battery and starter are connected but only when I turn the key to start the car..Don't know if this helps in excluding which wires are not the problem. As I test, fuses (the one to starter 275A) keeps burning out and cost $15 each time so can add up.
I wanted to clarify that the fuse does not burn out when the battery and starter are connected but only when I turn the key to start the car.
Understood. That'* why I wanted you to try to "start" it (after wrapping in electrical tape etc. from my previous post.
Originally Posted by Jungloverano
As I test, fuses (the one to starter 275A) keeps burning out and cost $15 each time so can add up.
Understood. Still we need to test further. At that rate, ten fuses is worth about one hour of dealership time to diagnose. Could you post a picture of this 275A fuse and its location?
Recapping next steps:
Originally Posted by CathedralCub
We need to find the cause of the blown fuses. Right now you have the starter out. Make sure the ends of the wires (that were connected to the starter) are safe, as in wrap in electrical tape and keep them from touching anything. Reconnect the battery. Try to "start" it. Did the fuse blow? If so, there is a short somewhere.
Disclaimer: Some auto repair methods can be dangerous. Perform at your own risk. Professional driver on a closed course. Past success not indicative of future results. Void where prohibited. Yada yada.
Bigger picture: I can't reconcile how anything else went wrong at the same time as the battery got really really really old and died, except that maybe the alternator would give up as well, which is common as it would get overworked keeping a bad battery charged. That'll be the next thing to check once it is running again. In the meantime, make sure you are handling everything you are working on carefully and methodically, and especially not kinking cables.
Can you get us some pictures of the battery area including cables, and also the starter area including cables?
Trying to start without the starter connected did nothing. He tried to turn the crank with wrench
and it turned 3/4 of a rotation in each direction only then gets very tough. we tested the starter outside the car and it worked. We reinstalled the starter and it just started and then the fuse blew. Can the engine not turning full rotation cause the starter fuse to burn out?
I have attached pics of starter fuse It is the black rectangular box between the positive terminal and the wire going to the starter. I have also attached pics of other fuses and relays in engine compartment
We had removed the spark plugs and saw no signs of moisture (by looking at spak plugs). Can it still be hydro locked? Does it not require moisture?
I don't think we had tried to rotate the crank when plugs were removed. Only checked the cylinders for moisture. The engine was running fine and car had just been sitting in very cold (-15 degrees celcius) for a couple of days and then dead.
The engine only turns 3/4 turn back and forth so not 1.5 rotation ..Less than a full turn.
Car did not start.
I read that if a motor is under a load then amprage it draws goes up (Is this correct?). If so, I think the starter tried to turn the engine and probably stopped at 3/4 rotation because of the load..then drew more power and burnt out the fuse to starter motor...So I think the problem I have might not be electronic but mechanical..If I can figure out why the engine is stopping after 3/4 turn and resolve this then the starter will likely be able to start the engine.
