Hello,

I am doing some work on transmission in Regal LS 1997 3.8L V6 L36.
Its 4T60e transmission.

Since I had to remove channel plate, I would like to replace all 4th clutch plates and friction plates.

I measured thickness of current steel plates:
2 steel plates have .0149 inch
1 steel plate .092 inch thick

I could find only .0135 inch and .077 inch steel plates for this transmission, which is about 10% more narrow that the current ones.
I bought this car used, therefore don't know if the current steel/friction plates are the right ones.

Have GM shop books for this car, checked whole transmission section - there'* nothing about 4th clutches thickness.

Anybody knows if 10% more narrow plates is fine for 4th clutches?
Not that I'm sure they need to be replaced (don't know how to determine this), I just don't want to remove transmission side cover anymore (not a fun job), therefore I would replace them just in case.

Please share where you by parts for transmission?

Thank you!

You might want to check your PC for malware/spyware. I just removed a spamming link embedded in your post.

Make sure your parts are correct for the trans your working on. 87 Regal with a 3.8 shows either a 4T60E (Code 6HBW) or a 4T65E (Code 7XAB) by the O/E service information I have. That could be the difference in plate thickness. If you scratch the fiber plates with your finger nail you shouldn't get material under the nail. If you do the plate is soft and won't last. The steel plates shouldn't be grooved, warped, or have been over heated. Make sure the splines on the 4th clutch shaft are straight and not wore. Have had to replace many for spline wear.

will do, thanks!

Thank you! I am pretty sure its 4T60E. Here'* why:
1) There'* M13 on the sticker in the trunk (according to GM manual this means 4T60E)
2) There was P1870 in computer, which according to GM manual 4T65E doesn't seem to have at all
3) Sticker on transmission says: 617HBWW0H6Z 7HB
This is code 7HBW, which is 4T60E according to GM book

Uploading photo just in case


Its possible that whoever worked on this car before me put clutch plates from say 4T65E or some other transmission, so I am not sure if the current 4th clutch plates are correct (and possibly any other parts).

Thank you! I am trying to remove 4th clutch hub for a while (goes hard even with jaw puller). It seems its just dead stuck on 4th clutch shaft
I am currently doing all this w/o removing transmission (just dropped frame and removed side cover), therefore I probably shouldn't try to remove 4th clutch shaft?

Is there anything that holds 4th clutch hub inside? (I mean that silver shining thing on the right of last photo with 18 teeth)

All the videos I watched guys just pull 4th clutch hub with bare hands! (they had transmission removed though)

We just measure the installed height and add frictions and steels to get within specs.

Aren't each metal clutch has specific purpose?
In GM manual metal clutches called reaction and apply plate.
If I put 4 metal clutches instead of 3, would it still work as designed?

I managed to take 4th clutch hub out.
There'* a cut inside (probably from bearing on output shaft), so I will replace it (and output shaft bearing).

Any advise on 4th clutch hub choice?
for output shaft bearing?
Thanks!

1997 4T60E is an oddball in-betweener. With this much trouble so far, it is probably worth overhauling if you plan on keeping it.