That sucks, if it is not one thing it is another!
I went with a Stant cap that supposedly leaks after a while, so far I have had it on for almost 2 years with no leaks.

If the oil leak looks like it is coming from the pan check the torque, it should be 125 inch lbs.
Hopefully it is not your rear main seal!

Just before went to work I swapped out the new cap for the old one and was not leaking again until after work.
Ya sucks and then blows like on the way to work tonight..again a surprise..
Right below the factory clamp on top heater hose.. she was spewing coolant, what a mess.
So after work with flashlight, had to remove factory clamp and cut off about 1.5 inch of hose and then use a gear clamp..so far it'* not spewing anymore...Those were GM heater hoses just over a year old too!
I hope it is just the rad cap, I see coolant stream down from the cap and of course it it is getting all down the side of the rad tank etc. Washed it with water & ran paper towels around cap now trying to figure out if there is a leak somewhere else like the rad..hope not..What fun...NOT!!! The daily coolant saga continues...
oh and edit in about the oil pan, I cant get lift time for 2 weeks on a Sat...let it leak I am afraid to look now after u mentioned the other "main" curse word...

i havent used dealer parts in 10 years they are using some chinese crap it seems. as far as the leak its pretty handy these days to just get a set of plastic ramps, they are fairly cheap, easy to lift and fwd cars dont chuck them like the cars used to. i just got a set from advance when they were having a sale and i got 20% more with P20 and pick up in store. then you can look in fairly quick time whats leaking

The upper rad hose was made in Mexico. Are Good Year hoses still made in N.America?

I might as well order 2 new heater hoses and the lower rad hose and have them in trunk with spare clamps.
I wonder if I can find a Stant Rad Cap here..need some other cap to try ASAP!
Ramps...ah they would have to be real beefy if I was to try plastic/foam ones.
I don't like working upside down....does WD-40 help loosen aching backs ? ..LOL

Look What I found today to try...

Rad Cap # 3 now..ha ha..going to have a collection soon....LOL..
Ordered Lower rad hose & 2 heater hoses.
Sound like it will be a mix of goodyear & gates hoses..will see..
One heater hose is not available here right now on back order, so I hope I get the right one to at least replace the one I had to cut...
The next issue is if the car hit 215F should the high speed fans be kicking in?
Will have to dig into the FSM and see what I can find out.
I think I may disconnect the temp sensor wires and see if I get high speed as a test.
Will the check engine light go out after re-connecting or am I going to need a reader to turn it off?

It should turn back off after a couple of test cycles. Or, you can clear it yourself.

the cheap ramps are rated for like 10-12k for the pair. i put my FILs quad cab hemi ram on it a few times because it has the low trim in the front and you cant see anything, i think your PA is fine. they barely even move with my bonnie

I've always been leery about using anything other than steel ones though when it comes to heavier rigs like my 4x4, so I am glad to hear the newer style ones work on your truck.
One of our local shops have these ramps Justin, and they would come in handy. $65
Are these similar to yours or got a photo of your ramps? Were & did u get yours & $ ?
Max weight on these are 12,000 lbs.

I'm wondering if for some reason or another your system has too much pressure?
Do you have a way to test the radiators pressure?


As for the fan not coming on, I am pretty sure the primary comes on when temps reach 221F, if not 221F then it is 227F, I know it is one of the two..

William I also was worried about too much pressure. My first though was what would happen if the overflow hose was plugged? Coolant level does not go up or down at all hot or cold, so I unplugged the hose to reservoir and blew into it and bubble city in reservoir. So much for that idea....
I'll have to ask the guys at the shop if they got something to check it while hot...
Re the fans they spin both slowly only after warming up & never seen them reach high speed even with AC on.
Then again the hottest temp recorded on a hot day stuck in traffic was 215F on PA ad it did cool back to 208 so things seem to be working.
Here is something new from FSM I just referenced...oh..interesting...
both fans are calibrated to command on, slow speed, and as AC high pressure refrigerant temp increases, this PA will control variable fan speeds and if extra cooling is required..get this...the LEFT fan will operate at high speed....until demands are met..
In other words its really PCM automated..big time.