That will work Mike, but I am not sure why he wants to trick the PCM, unless he is just trying to do so while he tests with a mechanical gauge, but I am not sure that is totally necessary if he is just trying to run it long enough to verify oil pressure via a mechanical gauge.
I am pretty sure the GM Oil Pressure Senders from 1965 and up run from 0-90 ohms, I do not know enough to say whether or not they have changed since then though, of course that does tell us the value of the resistance that it is at idle.
Again I am still unsure as to why he wants to keep it from making the ding sounds while he is testing it with a mechanical gauge.

If he is just trying to test the dash gauge then I could see the purpose of using resistors within the 0-90 ohm range.
I think I posted a link to a chart for the value of the resistors in relation to the ohms, I'll try to find it, wait I forgot, the post I made had to do with resistance values in correlation to temperatures for the ECT. :o

Just had another thought though, why would he want the gauge side to see the resistance as it should be, if he is just trying to stop the dinging?
I am pretty sure one wire feeds the PCM the resistance values, and the other feeds the gauge, wouldn't it be the one that feeds the PCM that causes the dings when the value not within specified ranges?

i agree with the contact cleaner, sounds like a bad connection, when the ops go alot of times the oil gets all in the wires, as well as something like the ps fluid as mentioned. i would make look in the back and front of the connector and make sure its clean and the wires dont move

After 2 days of further driving, the oil light stayed on full time hot or cold and read zero psi for that time... it was finally kaput.
Even though sensor was not leaking, there was oil residue on the ole electrical connector.
So I cleaned the connector with contact spray & compressed aired it dry before installing the new Oil pressure sensor.

Back to Normal readings this is hot at idle drive, compressor off.
Glad to see the oil light off and a fresh filter & Mibil1 syn in the beast again.

Good to see Art!
Did you get an AC Delco, or put that Standard one in there?

I used the Standard one.
Will see if it lasts longer than the last Delco which started to go after 14 months.
I am glad that the pressure sensor is fairly easy to replace.
No biggie if the Standard Fails to communicate or blows..Lol.

Standard has good units and like everyone else, including the Delco Advantage line, they have premium pieces and OE quality units. I sold Standard Ignition parts for years, run their wires and other parts a ton of miles and I rarely ever had parts fail or returned as defective at the store. Usually the defect was the clown that tried to install it wrong or should have not been allowed around hand tools. The Delco unit'* now are just Chinese made Delphi pieces since they moved things over there and canned all the American workers here. No longer Made in the USA and no better than other sweatshop pieces.....

I agree to an extent, it is not the quality of anything but Delco I dislike, but with anything but old original Delco sensors I have always had problems with the resistance of the sensors not being the same as the OE Delco'*, I like my gauge readings to remain as close to what they have always been as possible, and with other sensors I have always gotten a bit abnormal readings, at least in the dash gauge side.

Damn gremlins! Glad it stopped acting up on you Art.

Me too William very in-nerving viewing an oil light on!
What is it.. the 40 cent resistor inside this sensor is to light duty/cant handle the heat?

More than likely its the diaphragm that ruptured and not the sensor.

Luckily for you, yours didn't do what mine did like here in the video...