OEM MAF Sensor
40 dollar for the most "expensive" from the cheap one ... the prices start from 20 dollar .
I replacing it because the code P0102 show and I did the check to the volt from the connector . Also I felt a little hesitation and hard starting . When I disconnected the sensor everything fine.
I do the test when the car runing , I unplug the sensor and the car still runing ... even better .
I replacing it because the code P0102 show and I did the check to the volt from the connector . Also I felt a little hesitation and hard starting . When I disconnected the sensor everything fine.
I do the test when the car runing , I unplug the sensor and the car still runing ... even better .
When it comes to electronics on ANY car, always go OEM......
Had a guy come in to the shop.........said it was hard starting......sure was, and when it ran, it did not run that great...put the Tech II on it and the MAF data was all over the place......gave him the option of a reman from famous Parts store, or an AC Delco reman, which was more expensive and had to be ordered.......he chose the former......
He calls 2 days later....car won't start....says he is not going to pay for the tow Bill.......Since he knew about cars, I told him to disconnect the MAF to see if it started....it did, and he was able to drive it to the shop......
My freakin' comeback(we had a board that listed techs and their comebacks).....I rarely got one.....and when the check mark went against my name there was cheering in the shop......
I double checked the MAF harness and everything was ok........two days later the AC Delco came in.....re-attached the old one first, to verify it wouldn't start...disconnected it, and it started......put in new one, installed harness and it started right up....pulled on MAF harness to double check and everything was ok.....Ran into the guy a couple months later and he said the car was fine.....they wouldn't let me take the check mark down, next to my name......so I put an asterisk next to it.....
Have had lots of problems with aftermarket MAF'*.......had them not work right out of the box,,,,,
Like I said, when it comes to electronics, go OEM.....
Had a guy come in to the shop.........said it was hard starting......sure was, and when it ran, it did not run that great...put the Tech II on it and the MAF data was all over the place......gave him the option of a reman from famous Parts store, or an AC Delco reman, which was more expensive and had to be ordered.......he chose the former......
He calls 2 days later....car won't start....says he is not going to pay for the tow Bill.......Since he knew about cars, I told him to disconnect the MAF to see if it started....it did, and he was able to drive it to the shop......
My freakin' comeback(we had a board that listed techs and their comebacks).....I rarely got one.....and when the check mark went against my name there was cheering in the shop......
I double checked the MAF harness and everything was ok........two days later the AC Delco came in.....re-attached the old one first, to verify it wouldn't start...disconnected it, and it started......put in new one, installed harness and it started right up....pulled on MAF harness to double check and everything was ok.....Ran into the guy a couple months later and he said the car was fine.....they wouldn't let me take the check mark down, next to my name......so I put an asterisk next to it.....
Have had lots of problems with aftermarket MAF'*.......had them not work right out of the box,,,,,
Like I said, when it comes to electronics, go OEM.....
strange situation , today I tried to start the car (like I mentioned , now the MAF sensor disconnected until I buy the new one) , the car start and run like 1 sec and shut off ... I try 2 more time and the car still the same. I conected the sensor and it didn't help . I touched the harness and all the wires (include the IAC valve harness) and the car start and run .
when the problem started , week or two , I replaced the IAC valve in new one (AC delco) .
I checked the MAF again , did the Hz test and it seem working , the Hz moving from 3Hz in idle and 6Hz when I push the throttle . (also I got 12V and good ground) .
please what could be the reason ?
when the problem started , week or two , I replaced the IAC valve in new one (AC delco) .
I checked the MAF again , did the Hz test and it seem working , the Hz moving from 3Hz in idle and 6Hz when I push the throttle . (also I got 12V and good ground) .
please what could be the reason ?
You can get a Hitachi for about 83 bucks on Amazon. Hitachi is the OEM for these throttle bodies. The name Hitachi is stamped right on the throttle body. A cheap Chinese knock off will solve your P0102 code but will throw your fuel trims out of whack. I speak from experience as I tried to go cheap but wound up having to buy a used MAF from a junkyard through Ebay. 29 bucks and running fine ever since.
strange situation , today I tried to start the car (like I mentioned , now the MAF sensor disconnected until I buy the new one) , the car start and run like 1 sec and shut off ... I try 2 more time and the car still the same. I conected the sensor and it didn't help . I touched the harness and all the wires (include the IAC valve harness) and the car start and run .
when the problem started , week or two , I replaced the IAC valve in new one (AC delco) .
I checked the MAF again , did the Hz test and it seem working , the Hz moving from 3Hz in idle and 6Hz when I push the throttle . (also I got 12V and good ground) .
please what could be the reason ?
when the problem started , week or two , I replaced the IAC valve in new one (AC delco) .
I checked the MAF again , did the Hz test and it seem working , the Hz moving from 3Hz in idle and 6Hz when I push the throttle . (also I got 12V and good ground) .
please what could be the reason ?
what do you think ?
It might be because you attempted to start the car WITHOUT the MAF connected.
Try leaving it connected, start it and let it run, then disconnect it.
Have you replaced it as we recommended it?
Try leaving it connected, start it and let it run, then disconnect it.
Have you replaced it as we recommended it?
now I'm not sure that the MAF is the problem.
The Hz test looks OK ? it seem like the sensor respond ..
why the car run better without the sensor ? It'* a point for sure that the sensor must be replaced ?
Mike , why only one time the car didn't run ? And when I touched the wires it start ?
thanks






