Hello Folks, last week driving on the highway, 1992 Buick Lesabre Limited suddenly started hesitating. I pulled over and as I revved the engine, it was badly rpm limited, having a lot of trouble revving. Not missing as I have changed plugs, wires, coil packs, and ignition module in 2020. But didn't want to rev. Almost felt like a MAF problem like I have experienced in other vehicles. Full throttle down and like a power bog down, a severe dead spot. Engine not overheating, oil good, coolant good, transmission fluid good. MAF replaced in September 2019.

My first thought was clogged catalytic converter. I didn't smell anything but a plugged exhaust was my thought. Exhaust is completely original as is most of the mechanical items. Fuel pump was another thought as it is the original pump 29 years old with 142,000 miles. I let it sit for a few hours and it drove home with no problem and drove great for a week about 100 miles. Left me wondering.

Last night, wife driving home, stopped for a pickup and when she came back out, it wouldn't start, completely dead. Battery was good with all lights working and dash working. There is zero connection between start and engine. Not even a click from the starter. Only time I have ever seen this is a bad ignition switch or the fuse to the switch. I connected the behavior on the parkway to this as well. If the switch is going, the electrical functions of the car can get very weird like the hesitation I experienced. From what I know, a bad switch can cause erratic engine behavior while driving. Any thoughts?

I priced ignition switches with BWD units going for between 30 dollars and 80 dollars with or without console. Does anybody know what the difference is?

Did you test the switch? The difference between those two switches is 50 dollars.

I haven't done anything yet. Its still parked at the store. I'm going tomorrow morning. She said battery was full power with everything coming and no noise at all when turning the key, absolutely nothing. So i figured it has to the ignition switch or the fuse.

I have never done this before. How do you test, replace? And what does that price difference include, with or without console?

Maybe you ought to have someone look at it.

To check this, I'd start with a volt meter and a helper, and check circuits and relays along the way.

I think I can probably eliminate the ignition switch and fuse because when I turn the key the dashboard lights up fully with all lights and gauges on line. If it were the switch, I would get nothing. Battery tests at full 12.5 volts with cables tight and connected so its not a bad battery. But I'm not even getting a click from the starter or crank from the engine.

So it has to be either the Passkey 2 shutting it down or the starter is completely and totally dead. She did tell me that sometimes when she cranked it in the morning, the starter would make a whining noise and require a couple of restarts and was fine. So this starter could have been going for a time back being she first heard this last year.

Have you heard of a situation where the starter doesn't even click? That'* what I have going on here.

Yes. It could be no start voltage getting to the starter solenoid, or is could be a failed starter.

To check this, I'd start with a volt meter and a helper, and check circuits and relays along the way.

When you first turn ON the ignition switch (not starting) what does the security light in the cluster do?

This is pretty important, and will tell you if the security system is suspect.

If it flashes a few times then goes out, check the trigger wire going to the starter with a test light to see if you are getting power to trigger the starter. Also check all of your primary power/ground feeds for tightness and corrosion, as these can also affect things like this, especially the ground that I believe is under the ICM.

My Regal has similar issues when one of the power feeds running to a distribution block works loose.

Take it somewhere. You don't know how the switch works.