thank you Atlanta, I checked all lines and only the line that is cold is the one that comes from the fire wall to the black nut above the accumulator ,there is a line from the back of the compressor is very hot, dont know what the name of it is but it looks like a small tank

The other line coming from the firewall is not chilled? If so, you need to install gauges and check the charge. It may just need some freon. If you decide to open the system, be sure to replace or clean the orifice tube (those very small orifice tube screens often get partially clogged).

thank you, that will be my next step, also it is my understanding that if I open the system,(like replacing the orifice) I would need to evacuate the system and run a vacuum pump to get out the moisture, if i did that what about the oil in the compressor, if doing a vacuum, does that take out the oil from the AC compressor?

Let me address this from (3) angles.
1.) If it has taken years for the amount of missing freon to leak, then you likely have a very, very slow leak. If on the other hand, you have added freon during the last year, you really should use a leak detector to locate the leak while the system is under pressure. I personally don't get to worried if I need to add a small amount every 2-3 years or longer. Anything more frequent, I'd want to repair the leak.
2.) As for replacing the orifice tube, if you bleed the system very slowly, you should lose a negligible amount of oil. It helps that the fill valves are located at a high point. After you replace the orifice tube, if you initially evacuate the system slowly, you should lose a negligible amount of oil. Once the system reaches a steady vacuum, you should just lose (or boil away) the unwanted moisture.
3.) Referring to 1.), depending on the leak location and the volume of freon that is actually leaking (judged by how often that you need to add freon), you could have lost some oil from the leak. There'* no way to measure the amount of oil currently in the system, so it'* really going to be a judgement call based upon the factors discussed here. If the leak is really slow, and you carefully bleed and evacuate the system and the compressor has not been abnormally noisy, I'd think that you probably have enough oil. The system holds about 9 oz of PAG 150. If you want to play it safe, add an ounce when you replace the orifice. Its really a judgement call.

Here is the readings from the gauges I hooked up, the weather is currently 74 with humidity at 77, I will try to attach a photo of the gauges

These are the readings

That'* low. You'll have to apply your best judgement on if you should concentrate on finding the leak or deciding if you want to just swap the orifice tube, vacuum & recharge the system. If you have a leak detector why not sniff the system? One thing that frustrates me (personally) with the GM systems is the HP & LP test ports seems to be prone to leaking a little. Until I can find valves that don't leak any, I've installed metal caps with O-Rings. If anyone in the forum has found any that don't leak, please share the brand.

Thank you for your advice, I respect your professionalism and help, just so you know I did some digging around trying to gather as much information that i can in trying to determine my next move, i came upon some info saying according to the readings that the compressor is failing and that there is a valve inside the compressor is causing the low pressure, saying its time for a new compressor, that might make sense since the car is 25 years old,what are your thoughts?

I don't disagree that the compressor could be failing.

once again thank you

Sorry to hear about your wife!

I suggest just recharging it. Evacuating, repairing, and refilling can lead to complications. Later, when less is going on in your world, look into repairing it if you really want to.