HELP !! Wheel bearing ? half shaft ? noise at 40 mph gearheads needed - Page 3 - GM Forum - Buick, Cadillac, Chev, Olds, GMC & Pontiac chat


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Old 03-10-2012, 05:38 PM   #21
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Diagnose CV Joint:

Roll down the windows, and begin to drive slowly. Without stopping, make a turn to either the right or left, and listen for a clicking noise coming from under the car. If a clicking noise is heard, place the car in reverse, and slowly turn the wheel all the way to one side. Drive the car in a backwards circle. If the clicking noise increases in volume, the CV joint will most likely need to be replaced.

Place the car in park with the engine running, and wait a few seconds before putting the car in drive. While placing the car in drive, listen for a heavy clunking noise. Alternate acceleration and deceleration, and see if a slight shudder can be detected. If there is a shuddering feeling during this process, try it in reverse. If the shuddering gets more pronounced, this indicates a bad CV joint.

Diagnose wheel bearing:

Raise wheel off ground, grasp at 3 and 9 and push in and out. Grasp at 12 and 6 and push in and out. If it moves at 3 and 9 but not 12 and 6 you probably have a bad tie rod. If it moves at both 3 and 9 and 12 and 6 it is probably a bad bearing.

$60 for an installed wheel bearing/hub assembly is not a good deal, it is a suspect deal. No way it should be that cheap. Make sure you use Timken bearings.
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Old 03-10-2012, 05:46 PM   #22
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Wheel bearings tend to be constant. if you got one replaced for 60 at a shop, good deal. Did it fix the problem? I have done over 100 of the same issue. Gm suspension tech 15 years. Half shart are abou 45 bucks at the zone. Dont go diving in to fast if no visible sign of wear. 70 persent of people start throwong money at it and every shop has their own diagnosis. If it shakes/Wibble on rigjt or left turns and under throttle, more noticeable on hiway when car dips. Its the half shaft. Bearing is contant, ant there are others but visual inspections would reveal.
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Old 03-10-2012, 05:54 PM   #23
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Argue all you want with your road diagnosis. NOT ALWAYS A NOISE! PERIOD. LAST TIME I TRY TO HELP on here, listen to this joker. I'm doing this from my phone, and spelling is messed up. P.*. I dont know what bearing his shop put in it and 60 bucks is a deal if most bearing at a parts store are 40+
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Old 03-10-2012, 06:05 PM   #24
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Quote:
Originally Posted by krisdog1 View Post
Argue all you want with your road diagnosis. NOT ALWAYS A NOISE! PERIOD. LAST TIME I TRY TO HELP on here, listen to this joker. I'm doing this from my phone, and spelling is messed up. P.*. I dont know what bearing his shop put in it and 60 bucks is a deal if most bearing at a parts store are 40+
Please keep in mind we are trying to help people fix (or at least diagnose) a problem with their car, and for the most part these people know very little about fixing cars. If I was discussing diagnosing CV joint problems with a mechanic, we would talk about locking the mid shaft in a fixed position and rotating the outer asssembly to see if there is any play. This is more definitive than listening for noises while driving. When explaining this to someone who may have limited mechanical knowledge, and probably not much more than a 3/8" drive socket set and a couple of screw drivers, we provide a solution that is easy to understand and something they can do themselves.

Take a deep breath, have a beer, and think about the knowledge level of your target audience before you jump on your high horse.
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Old 03-10-2012, 08:07 PM   #25
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Thank you for the advice "senior member" I'm in my place now. I haven't thought about the fact he didn't have tools...... You are clearly the for most authority, and I was out of my place to go against your advice oh great one.

Why don't you take a deep breath, hold it it in......and keep holding.......................... I'll be off my horse shortly.
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