The ICM CAN cause an intermittment stall. Trust me, it happened to me for well over a year, and I had a ton of other stuff that I replaced before I nailed it down to the module.
The car was never trustworthy, and would never start in minus 25c weather. Sometimes you could start it, and it would die, and I'd have to take the other car. When the weather was warmer, the problem was non-existent. Middle of last summer, we went to Quebec City for our honeymoon, and we had an awful time getting it to go on our last day there. Finally, the module went dead completly!

Also, the digial EGR'* are notorious for causing stalling and lack of power on these cars. We called them a digital piece of crap in tech school, lol.

My fuel pressure measured 38 pounds and that made me suspicious, so I changed the pump. My stalling problem went away with the new pump, tested on a 22F morning, 45F morning and 70F morning.

With that problem gone, here are my latest issues.

1. My gas gauge has always read funny. It would be way above F when full and at 1/2 when the tank was empty. I tested it when the pump was out and it measured 250 ohms at full and down to about 150, then it would stay at 150 all the way to the bottom. That seemed to fit the symptoms, so I changed the sender. The new sender reads from 250 at full down to about 50, which I think is the spec. Once in the tank, things got weird. Now, the needle is way off scale above full and comes down to full when the tank is nearly empty. I made sure that the float has clearance and is moving it'* full range. What could be causing this? Connectors are clean and tight.

2. My fuel pressure now jumps to 47 pounds when the key is turned and then immediately jumps down to 40 pounds. I have ordered a new pressure regulator and will try it Monday.

Steve

take the ip out and make sure nothing is wrong with the connector and what the resistance is there

I measured the resistance at the tank connector and it is currently at 150 ohms, at about 1/2 tank. I cleaned the contacts and reconnected... no help.
I had a spare connector with wires so I made up a circuit with a variable resistor where I can vary the input to the car to simulate the tank sender.
Using this circuit I can easily move the gauge from E to F. The problem is that when I measure the resistance required for various gauge positions, I get this:
F = 91 Ohms
3/4 = 61 Ohms
1/2 = 45 Ohms
1/4 = 30 Ohms
E = 10 Ohms

The sending unit puts out from 50 Ohms (Empty) to 250 Ohms (full), so something is wrong....but what?
Steve

I'm shooting in the dark when I say this, but may be helpful. My 95 Bonneville used a 0 to 90 ohm unit. My friends 96 PA uses like a 40 to 190, while my 97 Bonneville uses (forget low end, but I believe high end is like 240.)

So, based on your variable resistor readings, you have the wrong sending unit.

Because I upgraded my 97 to Supercharged, my buddy gave me his Supercharged new sending unit. But the ohms were off. So, I inserted a few resistors to make up the difference. Works like a charm.

Thanks Mike,

I think you may be right. The fuel gauge was off since I bought the vehicle and maybe the sending unit had been changed previously with the wrong type. Just as a double check, how do I find out what sender was used in my 94 Park Avenue, L27 setup?

Steve

I just looked on Rockauto.com for your sending unit. Your particular sending unit would work on my 95 Bonneville, which would be 0-90 ohms. According to my 1995 field service manual.