traced the ground wire from the module under the seat all the way to the fuse block and didn't find anything wrong.
really frustrated, don't know when I will get back to it, supposed in the 20'* tommorrow.
I'll keep everyone posted.
Any suggestions are appreciated.

I suggest using a 4 amp headlight or similar and power it through the circuit and measure the voltage drop across the wiring. This will show problems much better than simple resistance tests. If you are unsure how to do this just go to You Tube and enter voltage drop test in the search and you'll get several videos explaining this technique. It finds problems much better.

I too am a little confused by the test procedure because it asks you to disconnect the harness to the module, but does not ask you to disconnect the OTHER seat module which is connected in parallel to the BCM....it then asks for a resistance reading.....

As I said before, I am not liking the P0606, where the fault could be in the PCM, or data from another module, causing the PCM to act up(data out of parameters).....It'* obvious the switches are working, because the seat module clicks......one thing that makes me wonder is, is the BCM inhibit signal reducing power to the seat module(*).....

Forget the P0606, I was mixing up my posts.....Sorry about that.....

One thing I know for sure is 'trouble' trees will get you in trouble more than not if you follow them exactly. I read them and look at the circuit and draw my conclusions. If they have a decent circuit description and diagram I will ignore the tree. The best thing is to glean the information and study the circuit and use common sense in your diagnostic approach.

The voltage drop test is a good idea. I'll try that, I haven't thought of that. I was pretty much going by the repair manual flow chart or whatever you call it. And I guess I keep getting hung up on the high resistance reading of the ground circuit between the switch and module. Which I now have traced from both ends all the back to the fuse block under the dash behind the glove box. But, I can't get to a ground splice they put in right by the fuse block, I will have to take everything apart to get to the harness! FUN!
But my first inclination was since the switch worked and the module clicked and the heating elements are good that the inhibit signal from the BCM was the cause. How could the module be powered up and click if the ground circuit was open?
Also,I did check the inhibit signal and now I can't remember what it was, sorry. I think it was 5v. And I'm not sure, but I think it'* supposed be an open circuit normally (0v infinite resistance).

correction. I just went out and tested the inhibit circuit and it read 0v and no short to ground.
The manual only says 'under heavy load the BCM commands the heated seat module to cycle power output to 50% of normal and it does this through the inhibit signal circuit.

If you have BAT voltage at A and B of C1(use a test light to ground), and you have a good ground at E of C1( use test light between A and E), then I would eliminate the BCM inhibit signal......to do this, either back out the yellow wire to terminal H of C1, or cut it about 2+ inches away from the harness(to make repair easy).....this eliminates the inhibit signal from the BCM.....you will have to do the same thing to the yellow wire at term H of C1 of the other seat module......the inhibit signal can be caused by a bad BCM OR a short to ground in that circuit....

Now with everything connected, turn key to on(don't start), now turn either seat on HI......wait a few minutes, it will take time for the seat to get hot....If it doesn't work, shut off the switch and try the other seat switch on HI.....wait a few minutes.....does it get hot?

If neither seat gets hot(remember it takes time for it to get hot, and rather than put your hand on the seat, sit in it), then you are going to have to back probe the connectors at C2 and C3 for voltage readings with a dvm......If the circuit is working, at term A, C2, you should have your highest voltage(one probe to A, C2, and the other to E, C1)....then move one probe from A, C2 to B, C2.....the voltage should drop....if it is the same as your first reading there is no current flow....if your reading is zero, then you have an open....you then take readings at A, C3, which should be the same as B, C2......then at B, C3, you should have your lowest reading or zero......

If all the readings are the same voltage as term A, C2, then you have a bad seat module.......

Good news, kind of. I did the tests that Tech II recommended and some things didn't check out like they were supposed to. so I went back to bad ground and pulled the other side of the fuse block out that I hadn't repaired and sure enough found a loose ground connection, must have been intermittent, not sure of anything anymore. Sure did humble me. fixed it and my Passenger seat heat now works. but the drivers doesn't. Is there some way I can drive from the passenger seat. LOL.
now it'* on to the drivers side. Other than a cursory check I didn't go in depth on it. Gonna pull that seat out of the car to so I can redo the foam and bad motor.
Let you know what I find!
Thanks so much for the help!