Door Chrome Trim Separating & Water Leaks - Page 4 - GM Forum - Buick, Cadillac, Chev, Olds, GMC & Pontiac chat


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Old 06-05-2014, 01:52 PM   #31
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LOL Art, at one point I really could have used that!

still no ideas of what to use, I wonder if I could find a nice long magnet that would cover the area, it would be easy to remove, but I doubt it would fit flush enough to provide a good seal.
Back to the drawing board, lol
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Old 08-11-2014, 07:15 AM   #32
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Sigh, I tried a little Great Stuff small crack sealer to carefully seal the are over top of my license plate, and water is still coming in.
I fixed the rear part of my trunk that was not perfectly inline with the body of the car due to me putting too much in the trunk when I had my giant speaker box, but it still leaks.
I have done everything but hopped in the trunk while somebody hoses down the trunk, I guess I am going to have to do that.
I still don't get how the water keeps finding a way in.
It is also making its way back to my rear floorboards again.
If it is not one thing it is another, I love my PA, but it does not seem to love me back, lol

I guess if I cannot find the leaks soon I'll have to get a car cover, and a tarp, and just start covering the car, at least that will protect it from the water, and the sun..
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Old 08-11-2014, 07:13 PM   #33
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I think I know what is next....

Bring a good flashlight while you are in there......
With water running over top of lid, hopefully you can identify the leaking spot!
Oh and bring a small pillow, it makes it more comfortable, and fun to discover a potential new large sleeping location!! :
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Old 08-11-2014, 08:06 PM   #34
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Soft Ride View Post
I think I know what is next....

Bring a good flashlight while you are in there......
With water running over top of lid, hopefully you can identify the leaking spot!
Oh and bring a small pillow, it makes it more comfortable, and fun to discover a potential new large sleeping location!! :
Lol, I you could sleep two by the looks of it
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Old 08-11-2014, 09:17 PM   #35
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Is that a picture of Art finally?
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Old 08-12-2014, 01:42 AM   #36
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i just read thru this thread and noticed you havent mentioned checking the trunk seal itself. my newer gen park avenue was actually leaking UNDER the seal. mated up to the trunk fine, no light showing thru at all. it was actually going up under the seal, the lip it sits on and into the trunk itself. i used clear silicone on the entire lip, then pressed the seal back on and my leak was fixed.
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Old 08-12-2014, 03:43 AM   #37
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LOL Art, that about sums it up..
I am guessing Jason is probably right about what the problem is, I have suspected the main trunk seal for a while meow, because years back I had a custom speaker box made for two 12" 5,000 Watt Pioneer subs I bought, and I told the guy to use as much as the trunk that he wanted to use, so he measured it, and built the box a tiny bit to large for it to drop in, so me being impatient I said lets do what we have to do to get it in there, as I did not want to wait for him to cut it, and fix it..
So we removed the seal, and beat at it with a sledge hammer a bit, I tried to bend the metal that holds the seal back in place, but I did not get it perfect, I'll remove the seal and see if I can get it back to the way it was before we pounded it.
Also I did notice a crack or two in the seal, but I put silicone on it, thinking that was where the leak was coming from.
Now that you mention the water getting up under yours Jason, I am betting that is how it is getting in mine, as to get down into the break light housing in the area it is, there is just no other area it could be entering.

I still will have to figure out how the water is getting into my rear floorboards, I guess it could somehow be from the trunk leak, but I still think it may be making it in through the door trim, as that area looks wet when it rains.
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Old 08-12-2014, 10:57 AM   #38
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Took the weatherstrip all the way off, there is moisture and a little dirt all over the body that the strip attaches to, so moisture is getting under it for sure, I got out some punches, pliers, and my 5lb hammer and carefully beat the rim above the headlight area back into shape, it is not perfect, but once I use some silicone on the weatherstrip that I just cleaned, it should seal better, if not 104.00 for a new trunk weatherstrip will be on my list of things to purchase, I should have replaced this thing a long time ago.
Thanks for sharing what you did to fix your leak Jason!
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Old 08-12-2014, 11:49 AM   #39
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I had just enough silicone left to finish the job, I still need to get some of the rust preventing paint that Art used on his interior engine bay, and paint the area I banged up in the past, because I could see corrosion starting, and the beginning of a tiny rust spot, so I an going to have to sand it, paint the area, then put a new trunk weatherstrip on.

Jason, do you remember if your trunk weatherstrip was one solid piece?
Mine has a clean cut in the center of the area where the trunk latch is, and I cannot remember if it was like that already, or if I cut it when I did the banging to get the speaker box in..
I am thinking it should be one solid strip, with no breaks.
I did silicone the break good, in hopes that it holds till I can get the money to replace the weatherstrip.
I have a 104.00 ticket coming up next month, from where I got ticketed for the bad inspection sticker, so it will be October before I can try to get the stuff I need.
I think the weatherstrip will come with the black silicone or whatever it is already inside of it, I know the brake light weather strips came with the black gooey stuff already on them, I wish I could think of the name of the stuff, but I cannot remember what it is called at the moment.
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Old 12-04-2014, 10:50 AM   #40
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Finally pulled my carpet up in the rear, my padding was soaked, and is ruined, the carpet should be able to be cleaned and used again whenever I get around to finding the leak, which I see now is definitely going to require me to remove the seats, I am hoping the bolts for them are not rusted, and I hope they are easier to remove than they look.
Good news is there is no rust on the floorboard, but I have got to find this leak and fix it ASAP!
I wonder where you'd get the insulator/noise dampener stuff for the floor from?
I know I could dyna-mat it if I had the money, but that is overkill, the road noise really won't bother me...

Anybody ever removed the seats from a Park Ave?
Is it a pain to do?
I am hoping you just pop off a few plastic covers, unbolt like 4 bolts, and disconnect any electric connectors there..
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