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Changing Heater Core/Hoses 98 Buick LeSabre

Old Dec 13, 2021 | 11:45 PM
  #11  
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just throwing ideas out there.
If you have an air compressor.
Central Pneumatic Extended Reach Cutoff tool at Harbor Freight, $40.
Central Pneumatic High Speed Air Saw. Harbor Freight $25
8 Inch Bolt and Wire Cutters, Harbor Freight $9
Or even a Reciprocating saw. lot of people just say a Sawzall.
Good Luck Kimberly
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Old Dec 14, 2021 | 12:38 AM
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Originally Posted by TommyB
just throwing ideas out there.
If you have an air compressor.
Central Pneumatic Extended Reach Cutoff tool at Harbor Freight, $40.
Central Pneumatic High Speed Air Saw. Harbor Freight $25
8 Inch Bolt and Wire Cutters, Harbor Freight $9
Or even a Reciprocating saw. lot of people just say a Sawzall.
Good Luck Kimberly
I have air; I will look at your suggestions, have a HF about 20 miles from me.
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Old Dec 14, 2021 | 12:42 AM
  #13  
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To get an idea of what I am dealing with:



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Old Dec 14, 2021 | 03:37 AM
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Wow, that is a tight fit!
I've also used a pair of needle nose pliers to grab the tabs so I could spin the clamp around to where I could see both tabs better, then use a pair of vice grips, the needle nose kind preferably, to squeeze and lock onto the tabs making the clamp loose then see if you could pull it back
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Old Dec 14, 2021 | 08:57 AM
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my park avenue was more accessible, but be careful not to damage the nipples off the heater core. I used hose clamp pliers the long ones with the small circle in the needle nose to grab a hose
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Old Dec 15, 2021 | 12:06 AM
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Originally Posted by Kimberly
I have spent considerable time trying to remove the clamp on the top hose; even using the special pliers. I think the suggestion of cutting the clamp off is what I am going to attempt.
You got one of those clamp pliers like I pictured above?

If so, hook the far side of the "jaw" on first then squeeze slowly as you align the near side. Once both sides have engaged, squeeze all the way and lock it. In my opinion it would definitely be easier than getting a dremel (or a screwdriver for new clamps) in there. I did mine without taking the Max-fuse cover off and it was surprisingly easy, especially after having wrestled with it for hours with pliers etc. and getting nowhere.
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Old Dec 15, 2021 | 09:31 AM
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Originally Posted by Kimberly
To get an idea of what I am dealing with:

How come it looks like you have brand new hoses going to the core? Is this job done?
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Old Dec 15, 2021 | 03:01 PM
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Originally Posted by carfixer007
How come it looks like you have brand new hoses going to the core? Is this job done?
those hoses have good print on them, the engine bay must have not been too grimey over the years, but i can see the cracks between the lettering. its old, stiff, most likely, and probably would break if you kinked it. It probably doesnt seal well on the engine end anymore. An alternative if they dont want to just do it properly, would be to cut the hoses staggered but perpendicular where accessible, if still supple enough, barb and clamp a 2 way barb on, then put new hose in. however its still a risk because of the age. but possible.

I would say the hoses are either OE or just long since there, the clamps look OE but possibly not in the OE spot. (as if someone had pulled them off before long ago)
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Old Jan 24, 2022 | 12:08 PM
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I am the third owner; the hoses could have been replaced at some time; or maybe they are the original hoses; I have no way of knowing.
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Old Jan 24, 2022 | 12:11 PM
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Update on the job. I got the hose clamp pliers but couldn't get them to work well; maybe I got some cheap quality ones. I eventually gave up on the pliers and used a dremel type tool to just cut the old clamps off. Once the old clamps were completely out of the way, it was no trouble to get the hoses off the old heater core. I got new hoses and used band clamps at the heater core but reused the squeeze clamps at the elbows at the engine.
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