A torque who?

I believe that would be called sarcasm.

Like the rest of us that wrench professionally(might I add, I'm Mack/Volvo/Hino Heavy duty certified) I'm pretty safe to say we use a gun on most things. If its internal engine, transmission etc, we use digital torque wrenches. In some of our manuals, its specified to use digital. Especially when something has an initial ft/lb torque, then its degree torque. And I'm not even going to go into specifics of turbine engine repair when I was in the Army. You think you're OCD? Pffft.

Sarcasm? Ya don't say......had no clue

Just because a lot of techs put air to everything, does not make it right. If you don't follow a published spec, you are not doing it right. Period. I don't care how calibrated you are. If you fucked up and had to explain to your boss that you tightened it by feel, what do you think would happen? You would be gone....regardless of your fancy certifications or whatever. You can say the same **** over and over until you are blue in the face. I don't agree with you.

I feel like I'm at the parts counter trying to work my way through some bs warranty hack and all I want is the goddamned zip tie so I can move on. Ya know?

Now seriously, can anyone help a brother out with a spec? Please.

If you choose to be a dick about it, then nobody will help you. This is how it is everywhere. If you don't like the responses you are getting, feel free to exit.

Like I already said. Nobody here has the specs you are looking for. The specs you ARE looking for, are in the FACTORY SERVICE MANUALS. WE do not have FSM'* here. We do have Gearheads here that are GM certified. And I am sure they have full access to the information you need. Also, I'm quite sure they won't take the time out of their busy schedule to look it up for you.

Apply copper anti-seize to shank. Install. Torque to 47ft lbs, then advance to next cotter pin hole-never back off.

""If you choose to be a dick about it, then nobody will help you. This is how it is everywhere. If you don't like the responses you are getting, feel free to exit. ""

Yeah you KNOW what I said above is TRUE that'* why you're pissed now, haha. Seriously, what are you....the hall monitor? Do you speak for everyone on this forum? Is this one of these forums where you have your thumb on everything and people are too scared to say anything for fear of being banned? Thought that was more of a Ford thing.

""Like I already said. Nobody here has the specs you are looking for. The specs you ARE looking for, are in the FACTORY SERVICE MANUALS. WE do not have FSM'* here. We do have Gearheads here that are GM certified. And I am sure they have full access to the information you need. Also, I'm quite sure they won't take the time out of their busy schedule to look it up for you. ""

The ONLY responses I have gotten are from you and I told you god knows how many times, that'* not what I want. I do NOT expect people to bend over backwards for me, I was just wondering if folks had done this recently or had some notes jotted down they could share.

""Apply copper anti-seize to shank. Install. Torque to 47ft lbs, then advance to next cotter pin hole-never back off. ""

Not sure where you got this spec but it matches nothing I have found.

You can close the thread now, I found what I needed on a different forum.

thanks anyway,

Drew

Commenting for when this thread pops up in someone'* search sometime in the future . . .

Okay, 1994 LeSabre. Common car, parts shared with many other makes and models. None of which are known for ball joints falling out.

Okay so I count six specifications so far, but all aren't good enough?

Exactly. And I love the terminology "ugga dugga". I'll be using that term in the future.

It'* a 1994 Buick. A 12-year-old getting it pretty darn tight with a big ratchet would be good. Then add a cotter pin.

SoooOooOOooo . . . Dstyduhar has been on this board for a few hours and he can read Mike'* mind . . . ? With these powers he could read a GM technician'* mind and save time.

What does this even mean?

This is why I decided to put anything here at all. None of us are scared to speak up, and if Dstyduhar had taken a moment to read anything here this is plainly visible. Mike gave a fast answer first, doesn't mean any of the rest of us wouldn't have done the same.

It'* a 1994 LeSabre. Almost nobody takes notes on how to do ball joints on a 1994 LeSabre or anything similar. If I had notes on that it would be "get it tight, then add a cotter pin". That doesn't make it unsafe.

This would work fine, although with the number of specifications in this thread the odds were starting to tighten up a bit that this is the correct one.

. . . and it is . . . ?

After quoting a half-dozen "wrong" specs, framing our suggestions as equivalent to ethical and safety issues for all of the auto-repair industry, and beating us up for what we contributed, it would seem that the best thing for all mankind would be to share this with us.

ROFL, ah teyl yew whut!