I HATE SSUs myself. Though the Silverado does have a set in it. Was a temp fix when my HID ballast went out. Gonna go back to HIDs tomorrow.

I can agree HID'* are better. More light is good.
One thing I do not like is the way there is no adjustment for individual level control of low & high beam.
For what it is worth here are some photos from my camera tonight.

I can see adding some 55watt each fog/driving lights to Pk Ave real soon.
http://www.myhellalights.com/index.p...5-series/ff75/

Decided to go ahead and get the HID kit MouSe suggested on page 1, I cannot wait to get it and install it.

I guess each time I go to get a yearly inspection I'll have to slip the old bulbs back in, no biggie...
I got the Error Code Eliminator just in case, as I do not want to have to pay so much for the shipping for it if needed later.

QTY Item Information Item Number Price
1 DDM HID Kit, 35W, 9006, 5000K (Kit / Package)
Wattage: 35 Watt
Bulb Type: 9006/HB4
Bulb Color: 5000K
DDM35W.9006.5000K $40.00
1 HID Kit Wiring Harness
HID-Harness $15.00
1 Error Code Eliminator - 3 (PAIR)
BOW3 $15.00
1 Pair of Mounting brackets for 35W DDM Ballasts
HID-Bracket-Slim-35W $4.00
Subtotal: $74.00
Tax: $0.00
Shipping: $23.26
Order Total: $97.26

I was hoping to get the HID'* sooner rather than later, it seems it may take a while though, tracking says last location is CHINA PEOPLES REP

Installed and all I need to do is tighten down the wiring a little better, I turn them on and only the driver side works, it looks pretty good even though it is not dark yet.. This company better send me a replacement bulb, there is no way it is my wiring job, I am 100% sure it is correct.

Thinking my wiring was not correct now, that or something is not right that I am missing, both bulbs worked, but only on the right side.



:( I think I made a big mistake, I forgot to disconnect my battery maintainer before turning these on, that or I did not have them wired correctly, which does not make sense because things would really only plug up one way.

I did have the wiring harness connected, and I had the original headlight connector hooked up to the ballast also, it was hooked to the error corrector module though, which seems like the way it was supposed to be, as you really could not do it any other way, unless I am just blind.

I had what looks like a capacitor in the error corrector module explode, it sounded like a small caliber gunshot, I am guessing the battery maintainer may have delivered a charge to it that it could not handle, just guessing here though...



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I hooked my old lights back up, and removed the fuse from the harness, as I do not want to take the system out, I will figure out what I did wrong somehow, hopefully.

I think maybe I should start my own thread for this problem, unless posting about this is ok here since it somewhat has to do with stuff contained in the thread, I just do not want to thread hijack in any way.

:o Apparently the wiring harness was not necessary, so me having the wiring harness, and the original wiring hooked to that, is most likely what caused the problem.
I read that they say you really only need the harness with the 55w systems, and occasionally with the 35w systems when the light will not stay on.

I tried to hook one of them up via hooking the original headlight connector directly to the ballast, then hooked the ballast'* HID wiring to the bulb, but it would not come on, I'll have to test the other bulb later, either it does not have enough power to fire the ballasts, or I may have blown one of the bulbs when that error eliminator exploded.
I am sure I'll need the error eliminator, as without it my low beam out indicator lights up.


Interesting, I just read this....

Warning: Some vehicles may have reverse polarity. Reverse polarity can cause a BOW to explode. We recommend wearing safety glasses and closing your hood before testing the BOW on your vehicle.

I tried to hook the lights up again with the wiring harness, but without the error eliminator, and they work, but only one light works, and it shows the low beams out on the interior panel.
Since I read that the error eliminators can blow up due to reversed polarity of some cars lighting, so I looked at the connectors, and they were made so you can reverse the pins easily, so I have the one that did not explode reversed, and I'll have to order a 15.00 replacement error eliminator, I'll have a pair of them, so I'll have one spare.
I'll reverse the polarity on them, and install them, and hope for the best, if it works I can tell I'm going to love these lights, I seen how one looked alone at night, and it is BRIGHT!

I still cannot help but think maybe I put the error eliminator in the wrong place, I'll have to look it all over tomorrow to see if that is possible.
I'd hate to get both error eliminators hooked back up and have both blow up!

Sorry you are having the issue, but thanks for sharing. It is god stuff and we all will learn by your diagnosis and repair.