Hi,
My daughter has a 1997 Skylark which she ran hot. I'm expecting that the head is warped and has blown a gasket. In order to remove the head on this 2.4L, does the engine need to be pulled?
Thanks,
Rich

No need to pull the engine to do the head.

Yeah...that'* what I'm hoping for. After posting here, I found a couple of videos that shows I need to loosen the water pump from the T/C cover. Which "should" allow me to move the cover enough out of the way to access "stuff" on top. Once I get the cam housing and head off. I'm expecting to find at the very least, a warped head.

i wouldnt just assume either of those things.. if you clearly have a head gasket issue, take your head off, have someone look at it or if you have instruments take measurements your own and stuff, but assuming things can get pricy. if it just got hot from low coolant, vs a bad pump, vs this or that, vs just about heat welded internally vs 260 degrees and steamy etc..

Do you need to know anything else or just about the engine pull or not? Lol. make sure to address the whole cooling system in your repair too they likely need it if it got that hot

Carfixer007 & OldsManiac1990, thanks for responding.

I initially posted to determine if I need to pull the engine just to remove the head for inspection. She ran it (not sure how long) out of coolant and the engine got hot enough (pegged the temp gauge) that the plastic water outlet, (head, driver'* side) melted. The coil pack spark plug seals were melted too. The spark plugs themselves looked very good, light tan in color. No coolant in the oil or on the dipstick. It was only running on one cylinder based on compression test for 1-4 (passenger side=1): 180, 65, 70, 65. Worst case, I'm planning on replacing the head, found a reman head in Florida ~$350, free shipping.

I have the intake and exhaust manifolds off, all bolts attaching the timing chain cover housing to the block, oil pan, cam housing and water pump drive are removed. I'm still unable to move the T/C cover away from the cam housing to remove them. I'm missing a bolt or two somewhere, just not sure where it is and is why I was asking the necessity of pulling the engine just to get the head off. I have a hard copy manual on the way, but it won't arrive until tomorrow.

Yes, I'm going to checking out the whole cooling system, probably replace the water pump while I have everything apart and since it'* a PITA to access. The thermostat will be replaced too. All of that based on the assumption that the piston tops and cylinder walls look good. I'm still surprised there isn't any water in the oil, especially with three cylinders blown.

The way this project has snow balled, I'm sure I'll be back asking questions, ha.

I would have done a leak down test to see if compression is passing through the rings. I hope you don't do everything and find the lower end is bad.

I did put oil in the cylinders and retest the compression, no change. It was not smoking (blue or black) and was not blowing out steam, which I thought was odd. As I noted earlier, the plugs are some of the cleanest plugs I've ever seen. I'm confident the bottom end is fine. But I'll pay close attention the condition of the cylinder walls once I get the head off. That'* the issue I'm having right now. I can't figure out what I'm missing. It'* very solidly connected to something still.

Sounds like it'* limited to the head.

Update on the Buick, 127k miles

Pre tear down compression (1-4) 180, 60, 70, 65
Post tear down compression (1-4) 195, 190, 190, 215

After tearing most of the engine apart and about 10 bolts from yanking it out of the engine compartment, I was able to get the head off. It was warped, the shop took 0.018 off to get it flat. Then lapped the valves/seats. The top of the pistons looked good, cylinder walls in general looked good too. So I was pretty confident the bottom end was in good shape. No water in the crankcase/dip stick, no oil in the coolant.

I replaced the water pump, all coolant and heater hoses. Cam tower bolts were stripping out, so I removed the head and installed thread inserts. Had to do the same on the intake manifold threads too. This car had been worked on before, the timing chain cover housing was cracked in several places, which was the source for several leaks. I was able to find a used housing on eBay for ~$40.

I was able to get the parts from Rock Auto which saved me a lot of $. Being able to get parts from RA is a recent change. For the past 2-3 years, due to some type of state/local tax collection issues that Colorado has, RA couldn't sell/ship to most of Colorado.

Everything is back together, it'* running great. Whew, that engine is a PITA to work on, ha.

You should get a few good years out of her,.