Glad to hear you found a dealer to do the crank relearn for you.

I think you are dead on with the problem of the shuddering and oil light coming from the torque app, as soon as you mentioned it being the possible cause I remembered that I had the exact same thing happen when I tried to use my I-Phone, along with the Bluetooth ELM 327, and the FuzzyLuke app, it was causing my PCM to spas out, my oil light flashed, needle fluttered I think, this happened any time when connecting, so I stopped using that app, and went with the DashCommand app, and had no problems like with FuzzyLuke.

no issues with torque on any of my cars

Are you using it with the Bluetooth ELM 327 IC?

According to the Torque website, cheap Chinese ELM327s can lead to weird things, like the engine refusing to start. I'm thinking this might be the cause, rather than the Torque app, even though it apparently works for you with DashCommand. I suppose maybe Torque uses more advanced features of the ELM327 or something than DashCommand, causing the problem. Since I've already paid for Torque, I'd like to try it out with a "higher quality" ELM327 unit and see what happens.

For only $60, too!

Here is the BT Elm 327 I use.


I noticed earlier I said I had no problems like I've had with FuzzyLuke, I meant to say I have also used FuzzyLuke app, and have no issues with the PCM when connected to either DashCommand, or FuzzyLuke, only when using Torque.

I did however have connection issues on occasion where I could not connect to DashCommand on the first try, it was due to me having to use RoqBT4 and have to direct it to connect via tcp, of course this is because Apple does not want me being able to use BlueTooth devices that they do not approve of, so it seems, luckily jail-breaking them is easy...

I'm still hoping that eventually there is an affordable similar device we can use to connect to the phones that has the STN1110 IC in it, it is a much faster IC than the ELM 327.

Some links about that IC in case you are interested about it, if one was good enough they could swap out the ELM 327 with the STN1110, but a few changes have to be made, and it is a little beyond my ability to do at the moment, or I'd make them for others.

STN1110 - Multiprotocol OBD Interpreter IC Chip - Low-Cost, High-Performance | OBD Solutions

http://www.obdsol.com/downloads/stn1110_vs_elm327.pdf


Very nice, that is a fair price.

ive got the cheap one. slow as heck i cant recommend it but doesnt do anything weird to the car there may be quality issues some work some dont

The second dealership agreed--the CASE learn is unavailable and unnecessary on '96 vehicles!

Interestingly, my harmonic balancer split open the other day, and when I replaced it the idle smoothed out considerably. I guess I may have damaged it doing the CKP sensor, but it was 16 years old so it was probably on its way out.

A split harmonic balance would definitely be a problem. How did you find it?

Funny story, actually. A couple of friends and I left for a roadtrip from Colorado to Texas, and an hour into the drive we shut the car off and fueled it up. When it started again, it was making a very nasty sounding rattly clunky sound. At first I thought it was the supercharger, so I pulled the belt but it kept rattling...I eventually figured it was the water pump, since I replaced that about a year ago with a (probably crappy) aftermarket. Had the car towed sixty miles to my house at 4am, and started tearing the car down to get at the water pump. When I pulled the passenger wheel to get at the lower motor mount bolt, the harmonic balancer was staring me in the face with a big gash all the way around. Closest OEM part was in Nebraska, so I went with a cheap Dorman for $100. We were back on the road by noon.

'Course, now that I'm in Texas, it'* started rattling very slightly again. You can only actually hear it in the cabin--if you have the hood open, it'* inaudible. I'm figurin' it'* either the cheapo harmonic balancer or my supercharger coupler starting to complain after the 800 mile trip.