Where are you hooking the pressure gauge? It screws on the shader valve on the rail.

the book is not wrong.
test procedure is: hook up fuel pressure tester to schrader valve on fuel rail, just like carfixer says, turn key ON, engine OFF, pressure should read 40-47 psi and hold. As soon as you turn that key to on or start your pressure should immediately be at 40 psi! It should not take 3 or so seconds to build pressure. If you then start the engine, fuel pressure should drop by 3-10 psi. That'* normal. make sure your tester is working ok.
Also, make sure your fuel pump relay is working ok. and finally, there is a single wire connector under the hood by the drivers side fender and strut tower, this is a test terminal. you can put 12vdc to it and your fuel pump should run. I guess this just confirms if your fuel pump is working or not.
Oh, and there is one last thing. if your oil pressure drops to low it will shut off the fuel pump. but I imagine you would get some dash warning lights or something.
Did you check for any codes? curious to see what you find.
Still sounds to me like it'* the pump. when you drive it a little it may get hot and quit working.
First thing I would do is make sure your fuel pressure gauge is working OK. You need to know for sure what your pressure is at each step.

Low oil pressure will shut the fuel pump off. But it does not seem to shut off. I would assume if it shut off it would shut the car off pretty fast. It does act weird, as it starting to run crappy sounding like its starving for gas, when you rev it up to a certain point and just leave it there it will keep running sounding very good for a very long time, to the point I get tired of holding it at the point and quit. It also gets to a point of running like crap and you attempt to rev it up and the throttle body starts cracking sounding like a garbage disposal making all kinds of noise inside there even can feel it when touching the air cleaner holder.

Its had a check engine light on for longer than I can recall. Many years ago. I do not have a code reader.

I read one good test I will try. Said to plug off the return line. If the pressure is high the regulator is bad if the pressure is low the pump or filter is bad or there is not 12 volts going to pump. How do you test the voltage with it running? Only way I know of checking the voltage is to remove the pump connection and test it there.

This problem happened after it sat outside for the winter about 8 months. When parked it rand fairly good. I recall it acting up once in a while when cold not running the greatest and when warm ran fine. When I got it running again after sitting the problem arrived immediately. Strangely thinking about it, I also have a older ford pickup truck that was also sitting next to it for the winter and it would not even start after sitting. And it ran fine before parking. A total power loss. Maybe reading to many conspiracy books?

What brand of fuel pump did you use?

Why don't you answer our questions? As far as we can tell you are not even reading fuel pressure. You have it hooked to WHAT?
Good luck.
I'm done.

To the spot on the engine that is made for that on the fuel rail or whatever its called. I can also attach it after the fuel filter under the car.

Switched relays, did nothing.

I did another rev it up test after I switched relays. Let it run for ten mins with a screwdriver stuck behind the linkage by the motor to get it to rev up some. Ran perfect for ten mins. took out the screwdriver idled good. Drove it ahead down the driveway, put in reverse ran like crap. Could barely keep it running to get it back to where I started. Almost does not seem like a fuel problem. Or someone explain why keeping it reved up keeps it running perfect for whatever amount of time. I think I could let it run till it ran out of gas that way and it would run perfect all the while.

Ebay no brand named

I'm done here. You are confused and it'* starting to confuse me.

What are you confused about. You asked me where I am reading the pressure. Most cars at least every Buick I have has a spot right on top of the engine on the fuel rail near the fuel pressure regulator. You simple screw the tester part into that. End of story. You can also take a different attachments and screw it into the fuel filter in between the filter and the fuel line and screw the tester into it there. Don't know how to say that any easier.

As for what the brand was, it was some off brand by someone on ebay. I do not know what the brand was called. I am sure it was not the ones whoever mentioned.

Or did you not understand when I said I put a different relay, from the horn, into the fuel pump spot and it did not help.

Or are you confused when I say when I start it up and drive it around the yard it runs like crap within a couple mins. If I simple let it sit and bring the idle up a decent amount and just sit and wait it will continue to run perfect. And I mean perfect. No misses no backfiring just a nice purring engine sound. And it will continue to run good for as long as I keep it going. Tomorrow perhaps I will let it run like that for 20 minutes and see if it continues to run 100% perfect.

Yes I am confused why it runs like crap almost right away when moving or if kept on a low idle but when the idle it increased a decent amount it runs perfect for any amount of time. Probably if I kept putting gas in it would run non stop till July.

So I would say that pretty much rules out the pump, unless pumps can run perfect at certain speeds and bad at other speeds.

Which the guy who said the oil pressure could cause a problem is making some sense. Perhaps keeping the idle higher keeps a better oil pressure. Which keeps the pump running. As it goes to the low idle the oil pressure drops. Never heard of such a thing happening.

Rather then telling us all the different ways you can do a test just tell us what you did. You need a new fuel pump.