Green Goop: I'll try to atatch photos below.

One of the towers (6,3) on the new coilpack is not firing – same as the last coilpack which was cooked when we were jumping the battery (don’t ask). After installing the new coil, we tested the coil pack with a multimeter and the voltage to the ICM. The only indicated issue on the actron scanner is rich exhaust, no codes, system pass. I’ve not been driving the car except to deal with alternate side parking.

I’ve considered making the swap to the delco system and I’ve read all the information I could find about it. I’ve decided not to go with the delco system. I’ll keep it simple and just match the original parts. If I’m able to connect with someone who has successfully completed the swap on this year/make/model, then maybe after the current problem is resolved I’ll start collecting the parts.

A new connector, icm, and a gasket are to arrive in a couple of days for installation. I’m hoping y’all can help me out with a couple of detail questions.

1.There is a bit of corrosion on a couple of terminals and I’d like to replace ‘em…maybe all of them.
a. Would y’all know what tool or kit is the one to use for release and replacement of the existing terminals? I’m especially looking for the correct tool/key for this type of terminal and new uncrimped replacement terminals of the correct type.
b. How about gauge of the wire to/from the ICM?

2. In what appears to be the original 28 year-old installation, wire K is absent. According to another post about ICM Test, wire K is the ICM ground and is necessary for correct operation of the unit. The new modules and connectors include wire K. What is your opinion about making or not making this new connection? The ICM bracket is connected to the block so I’m guessing that has been acting as the ground.

3. I’m considering the application of heatsink thermal compound between the ICM and the clean mounting plate. I’m guessing it will melt out but probably can’t hurt except that it is not conductive and could reduce the ground if wire K is not installed. Any ideas or opinions about this?

Thank you very much. All the info on this forum and a couple of friends gave me enough info to feel confident in handling this on my own.

Not sure if this third photo wants to load...

Well, the fact that your coil fires ok on the other two coil circuits, I would say there is nothing wrong with the connections in the harness.......best way to check them is to go to a GM parts dept., and then get a male connector.....insert in each female connector and the pull....should "feel" a drag as you pull......if loose, I would take a pick and make it tighter.....

However is it'* your life ambition to replace them, get all new female connectors at a parts dept.....when you get them, you will see a "tang sticking up......you will take something like a paper clip to bend the tang down, and then the connector/wire comes out of the harness.......you can reuse the weather seals or get them from the parts dept.......there is a special crimping tool to use....I think it is 20 gauge wire....

The way I tested the ICM, was with a test light.....remove coil......attach one end to one of the different colored wires, and then then other end to the wire with 3 connectors(common).....crank over, should flash.....then the next colored wire,,,,then the last one......if they all flash, it'* the coil....if one doesn't, it'* the ICM....

Yes, those Magnavox coils were a pain....lose one coil, you are basically replacing all three...

Thank you very much. I'll see how it goes after cleaning the existing connector. Seems like the terminals could be a bit tired. I will reach out to local dealer parts department to see if they have the terminals. That will probably be a second phase of repair. I do have a new connector coming to me but I'm guessing I'd need to solder those connections as the terminals are already crimped to the pigtail wire...I don't really want to get into soldering if I can avoid it.

Soldering is super easy.......the key is the gun, and having solder for electrical wiring.....

Basically, you twist the wires together, apply the soldering gun to the twisted wires, and then you touch the opposite side of the wires lightly with the solder....the gun will get the wires hot enough to melt the solder....the solder DOES NOT HAVE TO TOUCH THE TIP OF THE GUN! You just need to get the solder to run, you do not have to glop it on.....easy, peasy, lemon squeezy!

it may be easy but i'll find a way to make it difficult
i watched some videos about it and arrived at a point where i was watching something about nasa standards for wire splicing
one day i'm going to take betty to the moon

i found some information online about a 3800 with an icm that did not have a ground wire and when one was connected there was a positive outcome
so i'm going to pull a terminal from the new connector and make that connection

seems like the patina of dirt and oxidation between the mounting plate and the icm could have diminished the contact there and possibly caused a poor ground and poor heat transfer
though sometimes i wonder which way the heat is transferring what with that thing mounted so close to the motor

Here is a good one from a couple years ago, when I first noticed the green goop. Hopefully the next pick will be the finished installation - nice and tidy.

update:

i cleaned the mounting plate and the locking bolts...need new locking bolts.

i dug into the old ICM and backed out one of the old pins -- so that ICM is toast. i used the pin to test the female terminals after using some nylon dental picks/brushes to clean the terminals with contact cleaner. all is well and i'm getting a decent bite but one of the terminals will not accept the spade...it goes in about half way...sometimes the dental brush will go in. I've not forced the pin but i'm not being too soft on it either.

I've not opened the new connector which includes in-line crimps for connecting the pigtails. I've not opened it because i am hoping to use the existing one (avoid opening up the old wires) and save 60 dollars.

The new icm is wired up but there are no threads in the bolt holes...seems like I need to thread the darn thing, but what do I know.

Your suggestions are very welcome, and much appreciated.