1989 Park Avenue Non-Start help, please
#1
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1989 Park Avenue Non-Start help, please
Howdy all,
I'm new to the site and with starting issues I hope someone can help with.
The 1989 Electra Park Avenue has around 20500 miles on it and was working just fine until April of 2012. The aunt went out to run to town and it didn't want to start. I couldn't get it to start for a couple days and wound up pushing it out of the driveway.
My trusted mechanic could never get it back into shape. Over the course of two months we threw lots of parts at it after each one tested bad in some way or another - all the time the starting problem getting worse.
It started out cranking and cranking before it would start. The last time I attempted to start it I drained a battery.
The following has been done by me or the mechanic:
Replaced fuel pump
Replaced fuel filter
Replaced idle air control valve
Replaced camshaft sensor
Replaced crankshaft sensor
Replaced pcm
Replaced spark plugs
Tested coils by swapping with new to test
Tested ignition control module by swapping with a known good module to test
Plug wires tested
2 (or 3? - I've slept since then) ground wires at and near the battery removed and wire brushed to clean them up
I know the mechanic replaced the fuel pump because the fuel pressure was very erratic and I "think" I recall him saying after the replacement there was correct pressure and proper volume - again, it'* been a while.
He got frustrated one day and spent time cleaning - again, I think - the throttle body and MAF sensor.
This car went from being driven a couple hundred miles a week and starting with barely a flick of the key to sitting in front of the house not starting at all.
We've had very very little trouble from this car historically - alternator, water pump, a/c and a broken valve rod - and we bought it with 108,000 on it. I'm going to be getting into this again, hopefully next week, but need help and suggestions.
Any and all suggestions welcomed and appreciated!
Thank you,
Jim
I'm new to the site and with starting issues I hope someone can help with.
The 1989 Electra Park Avenue has around 20500 miles on it and was working just fine until April of 2012. The aunt went out to run to town and it didn't want to start. I couldn't get it to start for a couple days and wound up pushing it out of the driveway.
My trusted mechanic could never get it back into shape. Over the course of two months we threw lots of parts at it after each one tested bad in some way or another - all the time the starting problem getting worse.
It started out cranking and cranking before it would start. The last time I attempted to start it I drained a battery.
The following has been done by me or the mechanic:
Replaced fuel pump
Replaced fuel filter
Replaced idle air control valve
Replaced camshaft sensor
Replaced crankshaft sensor
Replaced pcm
Replaced spark plugs
Tested coils by swapping with new to test
Tested ignition control module by swapping with a known good module to test
Plug wires tested
2 (or 3? - I've slept since then) ground wires at and near the battery removed and wire brushed to clean them up
I know the mechanic replaced the fuel pump because the fuel pressure was very erratic and I "think" I recall him saying after the replacement there was correct pressure and proper volume - again, it'* been a while.
He got frustrated one day and spent time cleaning - again, I think - the throttle body and MAF sensor.
This car went from being driven a couple hundred miles a week and starting with barely a flick of the key to sitting in front of the house not starting at all.
We've had very very little trouble from this car historically - alternator, water pump, a/c and a broken valve rod - and we bought it with 108,000 on it. I'm going to be getting into this again, hopefully next week, but need help and suggestions.
Any and all suggestions welcomed and appreciated!
Thank you,
Jim
#2
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True Car Nut
of the things that can make the car not start i would guess maf is the only one you didnt replace. also could be the wiring or connectors from the sensors to the pcm
#3
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True Car Nut
First thing is to determine if this is a spark or fuel issue. Check to see if the plugs are getting spark when cranking, and test fuel pressure.
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If it were a wiring issue, wouldn't the lack of signal or intermittent signal throw codes?
At this point, the only things I can think of that haven't been replaced would be the MAF sensor and the fuel pressure regulator.
Jim
At this point, the only things I can think of that haven't been replaced would be the MAF sensor and the fuel pressure regulator.
Jim
#5
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Unplug the MAF and see if it starts. Pull the vacuum hose off the FPR and see if you smell gas on the hose.
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It'* definitely a MAF problem.
I tried starting it with the MAF sensor connected and nothing ... pulled the connector and it started right up. Plugged the connector back in and it died immediately.
Bought a can of cleaner and it seems to be starting consistently at the moment. If it doesn't continue, I'll replace the sensor.
THANK YOU all!!!
It'* appreciated - we want to keep this one rolling at least a while longer.
Jim
I tried starting it with the MAF sensor connected and nothing ... pulled the connector and it started right up. Plugged the connector back in and it died immediately.
Bought a can of cleaner and it seems to be starting consistently at the moment. If it doesn't continue, I'll replace the sensor.
THANK YOU all!!!
It'* appreciated - we want to keep this one rolling at least a while longer.
Jim
#8
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True Car Nut
Thanks for updating us Jim, glad you got it figured out!
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To continue this thread, I've got two questions.
Question 1:
After cleaning the MAF sensor, the car did NOT continue to start consistently. You'd still need to crank it for several seconds and sometimes try a second or third time. Better but not fixed.
I've just replaced the MAF. Will it take the PCM a while to learn there'* a new working sensor there? Because, it still is taking a few extra seconds to start.
Question 2:
I've borrowed a fuel pressure test gauge and with the engine at idle the pressure is right at 36.5 lbs. With key on, engine off, it'* at 45 lbs.
Original service manual says: "the fuel pressure regulator that is mounted on the fuel rail maintains between 40-47 psi across the injectors under all operating conditions."
So ... if the fuel filter and fuel pump are new ... and the fuel pressure is out of spec while running at idle ... I need a fuel pressure regulator?
Thank you all!
It'* appreciated.
Jim
Question 1:
After cleaning the MAF sensor, the car did NOT continue to start consistently. You'd still need to crank it for several seconds and sometimes try a second or third time. Better but not fixed.
I've just replaced the MAF. Will it take the PCM a while to learn there'* a new working sensor there? Because, it still is taking a few extra seconds to start.
Question 2:
I've borrowed a fuel pressure test gauge and with the engine at idle the pressure is right at 36.5 lbs. With key on, engine off, it'* at 45 lbs.
Original service manual says: "the fuel pressure regulator that is mounted on the fuel rail maintains between 40-47 psi across the injectors under all operating conditions."
So ... if the fuel filter and fuel pump are new ... and the fuel pressure is out of spec while running at idle ... I need a fuel pressure regulator?
Thank you all!
It'* appreciated.
Jim
#10
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A new regulator sounds about right and only costs a few dollars.
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2002 *-10 5.7 V8
2023 Jeep Rubicon Diesel